tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-86171157630885959072024-03-12T17:07:55.653-07:00Dave and Jenn's Bicycle Diaries"Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance you must keep moving."
~ Albert EinsteinDavid Braydenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03168652029329823825noreply@blogger.comBlogger73125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8617115763088595907.post-3234168823124752952015-07-23T11:30:00.000-07:002016-09-20T22:08:03.362-07:00The Beauty and the Beast of the DempsterThe Dempster Highway is the Northernmost all-season road in Canada. It runs about 800km North from Dawson City, Yukon all the way up to Inuvik, NWT. In that 800km, there are two service stops: the Eagle Plains hotel and restaurant at 400km, and the small town of Fort McPherson at 600km.<br />
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This road was the main attraction of our trip up North. It’s a real beauty; barely any traffic at all, wide open landscapes, camping anywhere … it’s a cyclist's dream. But it’s not easy. In fact, it’s a beast of a ride.<br />
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<a name='more'></a>The Dempster goes through four beautiful regions: Tombstone Park, Eagle Plains, the Richardson Mountains, and the Mackenzie Delta. This post highlights the beauty of each of these, separated by something that makes this road a beast to cycle.<br />
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Beauty: Tombstone Territorial Park</span></b><br />
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The first part of the road passes through the Ogilvie Mountains. At the centre of them is Tombstone Territorial Park. People come here to hike in the beautiful landscape. We were planning to hike, but with the rainy weather we decided to skip out and continue the ride.<br />
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Beast: Dempster Mud</b></span><br />
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The Dempster Highway is all dirt. Much of it is made of clay. In the summer it can get dusty, so the workers spray a mixture containing calcium on the road to keep the dust down. But when it rains a lot, the clay and the calcium combine to form this horrible sticky mud that coats your wheels and gets all over the chain. You can hear it eating away at the drivetrain as you pedal.<br />
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Mud coating the tires (can you spot it camouflaged in the left picture?) and the drivetrain<br />
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Beauty: Eagle Plains</b></span></div>
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After crossing the Ogilvie Mountains, the road enters the Eagle Plains. This is a large region of gentle hills. For cyclists, the best part is the Eagle Plains Lodge. It’s the first stop, 410km from Dawson, with the chance to get a meal and a hot shower. </div>
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The NWT tourist information office even carried a package of food for us to the lodge! This great service meant that we only had to carry 4 days of food on the bike instead of 8.</div>
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The long climb up to Eagle Plains</div>
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Outside the Eagle Plains Lodge we started talking to some folks from Ontario. They came and grabbed us while we were setting up our tent and said “Oh, no you don’t” and bought us a room in the hotel for the night and a steak dinner in the restaurant. How wonderful! We were so comfortable that we took a day off to relax in the lodge.<br />
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Well hello there Red Birch Boletes … won’t you go well with dinner tonight!</div>
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The land of the midnight sun!<br />
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<b style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Beast: Mosquitoes</b></div>
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People warned us about the mosquitoes in the North. Up to this point it actually hadn't been that bad... We thought we got off lucky, but here, they swarm in full force. They get everywhere, in your eyes, mouth, nose, and ears. To top it off, they are so big it actually hurts when they bite!<br />
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Thankfully, the mosquitoes aren't too much of an issue while we’re riding. We’re usually going too fast for them to keep up, and it’s too hot for them during the day. But wow, do they ever come out when you stop for the night. Sooooo many mosquitoes!<br />
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Jenn dressed for the campground</div>
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It seemed like the tent was always covered in dead mosquitoes. This is the dead mosquito cycle:<br />
1) Open the tent door, mosquitoes get in. Kill all the mosquitoes. Dead mosquitoes all over the inside of the tent.<br />
2) Get up to go to the bathroom. More mosquitoes get in the tent. Squish them all. More dead mosquitoes in the tent.<br />
3) In the morning, shake out the tent to clean out all the dead mosquitoes. During this operation, more mosquitoes get into the tent. Tent gets packed for the day, all mosquitoes inside get squished.<br />
4) Stop for the day and set up the tent. Already stocked with dead mosquitoes.<br />
5) Repeat the cycle day after day.<br />
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Hundreds more waiting for us on the outside of the tent in the morning.<br />
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<b style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Beauty: The Richardson Mountains</b></div>
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After Eagle Plains the road climbs again to pass through the Richardson Mountains. There is more wide open space and hard but beautiful riding.<br />
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Picturesque riding through the Richardsons</div>
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Welcome to the Northwest Territories!</div>
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Tundra is so fascinating up close<br />
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<b style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Beast: Wind and Rain</b></div>
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Although it is summer, this is still the Arctic. The weather is pretty volatile. Wind, rain, and even snow are common in the summer.<br />
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The road is raised off of the ground to prevent the permafrost from melting. This means that you really get blasted by the wind on a bike. If it’s not in your favour, things can get pretty hard.<br />
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Our last two days on the road we had a strong headwind. Through the flats the road is dead straight. Pedalling along a muddy road into the wind all day is pretty demoralizing. It felt like we were never going to get to Inuvik.<br />
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Finally, the pavement near the Inuvik airport. We were spent!</div>
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Fortunately we only got a couple really rainy days. But it’s been a wet July here. Every day it was raining somewhere on the horizon. We heard a story of some other cyclists who had so much rain that it took them 14 days to ride the road (it took us 8).<br />
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<b style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Beauty: The Mackenzie Delta</b></div>
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The Mackenzie River is the second longest river in North America, draining a full one fifth of Canada! Inuvik is located in the delta of the river, and the Dempster follows the delta for almost 200km. The delta is home to all kinds of wildlife, including caribou, polar bears, beluga whales, and lots of birds. Unfortunately the caribou (and fortunately the polar bears) aren't here this time of year.<br />
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There are two ferry crossings that are part of the road. The ferries are little boats which run back and forth every few minutes. Dirt ramps are made on each side and the ferry just butts up against them and keeps the motor running.<br />
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Getting off the cable ferry across the Peel River</div>
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We arrived at the right time. A few days earlier the Peel crossing was shut down when the river flooded and washed away the dirt ramp!</div>
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Coming down to the confluence of the Mackenzie and Arctic Red River at Tsiigehtchic</div>
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Finally, after 740km of dirt, we made it to the end of the road in Inuvik, NWT. Riding the Dempster Highway was a real pleasure. We feel so lucky to be able to experience this part of Canada on a bicycle.<br />
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We have a few days off here to explore Inuvik before we box up the bikes once again and fly back home. </div>
DJ Braydenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12014657673408410730noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8617115763088595907.post-48808144482134941122015-07-17T10:03:00.002-07:002016-09-23T19:17:28.743-07:00Aged to PerfectionBefore arriving in Dawson, we had no idea what to expect aside from the fact that in its heyday, during the Klondike Gold Rush, it was one of the most advanced cities in the Americas and the largest one east of Winnipeg and North of Seattle. We also heard something about a cocktail with a human toe in it. More on that to come.<br />
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We've been sorely disappointed in the past when arriving in mining ghost towns to find the only general store is closed, the motel is missing its roof and all the residents look like they haven’t seen newcomers in years.<br />
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Luckily I didn’t actually need to drink my sorrows away</div>
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Well Dawson was a wonderful surprise.<br />
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That’s not our ferry, that’s an old functioning paddle wheeler… There’s our ferry</div>
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The local government and Parks Canada have done an amazing job restoring a lot of Dawson’s old charm and they have many programs and activities to showcase it.<br />
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Some of the restored buildings in Dawson</div>
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Doing a tour of Robert Service’s cabin with readings of his poetry by a period dressed Parks worker</div>
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They also seem to leave certain things in an appealing state of disrepair.<br />
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Visiting the remains of a paddle wheel graveyard on the Yukon, just downstream from Dawson</div>
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Then there’s the entrepreneurs:<br />
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The folks running Diamond Tooth Gertie’s Gambling Hall put on three great shows every night, progressing in modernity and scandalousness as the evening wore on.<br />
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Dancing girls at Gertie’s</div>
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David even got pulled on stage!</div>
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Capt. “River Rat” Dick has made his fortune off an old preserved toe. He sells silly tourists like us memberships to the “Sourtoe Cocktail Club”. To join costs $5 and a strong stomach. You get a shot of Yukon Jack and Dick places the toe in your glass. Then he tells you “drink it fast or drink it slow, any way you drink it your lips gotta touch the toe”. Just when you think you’re done, he picks up the toe, squeezes the remaining liquid into your glass and says “don’t forget the toe jam”…<br />
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Details on the toe</div>
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Toe prep</div>
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Down the hatch</div>
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Lastly, and quite importantly, is the food. Dawson has several really good restaurants we indulged in. Our favourite was Klondike Kate’s.</div>
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Needless to say, we think Dawson City is aged to perfection. Hopefully all the fun and food we had here will fuel us through the next leg of our journey; over 800km of remote riding on the Dempster Highway. The next time you hear from us, we’ll be in Inuvik!</div>
Jennifer Braydenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08516145994906317592noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8617115763088595907.post-89218909016499971502015-07-12T10:54:00.001-07:002015-07-23T11:52:57.163-07:00No Country for Soft Men<br />
Our trip from Tok, AK to Dawson City, YT took us on the hilly Top of the World Highway. The road runs up, down, and along ridge tops with over 4700m of elevation gain in less than 300 km! The route made for a hard, but rewarding bike ride.<br />
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Powering through another steep hill.</div>
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Aside from the name, the road is actually quite old. It follows many of the original trails used by prospectors before and during the gold rush. There was the gruelling trail from Dawson City to 60 Mile, the 425 mile trail from Valdez to Eagle (downstream from Dawson), and trails from Dawson to the town of 40 Mile.<br />
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<em>“A forty mile walk over a rough wintry trail, in forty below zero weather, with a forty-pound pack on his back, left the prospector without poetry in his soul, but with a keen appreciation of the distance travelled…”</em><br />
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Reading the stories of early journeys through this area made us think, “Man, these were hard people.” Does adventure like this even exist anymore? Their stories made climbing steep hills on the bicycles seem like a stroll in the park. This post includes anecdotes about some of the people and places we learned about in the region and some of the these old routes.<br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Dedicated Postmen</span></b><br />
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The present road follows much of the old Valdez-Eagle trail. This trail was the main link on the Alaskan side to the Yukon river. Mail was delivered every two weeks, summer and winter, over the 425 mile trail via horse or dogsled by some hearty postmen.<br />
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<em>“One December the mail carrier arrived in Eagle almost two weeks late. He had lost all of his horses and had to walk in; his mail pouch held one letter.”</em><br />
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<em>“During a very cold spell, Lieutenant Billy Mitchell drove his dog team down the trail from Eagle to meet the mail carrier. When he found him, the mail carrier was sitting on his sled, frozen solid, even though he had wood gathered in front of him for a fire and a match in his hand.”</em><br />
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The forest regenerating from a huge fire in 2005.</div>
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Preparing on another rainy morning.</div>
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Looking down on the 40 Mile River.</div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Chicken, AK</b></span><br />
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In 1902, a local post office in the region was trying to decide on a name. There were lots of ptarmigans in the area so they thought they would call the town Ptarmigan. The only problem was, they couldn’t agree on the proper spelling. Not wanting to be embarrassed, they called the town “Chicken” instead.<br />
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Now the town of Chicken (population 17) takes full advantage of its name…<br />
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We didn’t choke the chicken … there was already someone behind the counter.</div>
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Climbing a steep hill outside Chicken, some guy pulled up alongside Jenn and told her that if we can make it 10 more miles to Boundary there is an old cabin that cyclists can stay in. We made it to Boundary and found the cabin, but thought we’d be safer in the sound structure of our tent.</div>
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The Boundary gas pump … I wonder if it still works?</div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>The Cold Winters</b></span><br />
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How do you know how cold it is when your thermometer is frozen? Trader Leroy McQuestem used some of his supplies to gauge the cold in the winter:<br />
- Quicksilver (mercury) froze at –40F<br />
- Coal oil froze at -50F<br />
- Jamaica ginger froze at -60F<br />
- Perry Davis’ painkiller froze at –75F<br />
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The Top of the World Highway follows more old prospector routes. It crosses from Alaska into the Yukon and then stays more or less on a ridge for 100km to Dawson City. It’s truly gorgeous. People come from all over the world to drive it.<br />
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We fixed it!</div>
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Checking out the view from a summit. And setting up shop for the night. Easy campsites were abundant.</div>
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Continuing along the ridge tops.</div>
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Now we’re resting our tired legs in Dawson City and filling up on more tall tales of hard men and women. Stay tuned…<br />
<br />David Braydenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03168652029329823825noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8617115763088595907.post-2602591862382272562015-07-05T22:55:00.000-07:002015-07-05T23:13:59.539-07:00Striking it RichThe stampeders came to Alaska for gold and the better life it promised. Unfortunately, most of them never found it. But maybe they found a different sort of richness in these hills; something people still come searching for today.<br />
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Most of the Alaskans we’ve met were not born here. Although their origins vary greatly, what seems to draw people to Alaska are a few basic human desires. Whether it’s a better life, the need for adventure, a fresh start, or just to get away. Many have found it in “The Last Frontier”.<br />
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So what drew us to Alaska? The adventure and the wild, open space.</div>
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Putting the bikes together in downtown Anchorage … ready to go!<br />
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The first leg of our trip took us Northeast from Anchorage about 520km to Tok, near the Canadian border.</div>
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A very large obstacle in our path. And the Matanuska Glacier with the Chugach Mountains.<br />
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Almost there!<br />
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The stampeders came to make a fortune, and while some still come here thinking that’s what they’ll find, if one gets outside the cities things are a little different. There are houses or little stores scattered along long stretches of empty road.<br />
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The road is lined with blooming fireweed at this time of year.<br />
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We stop in almost all the roadhouses we pass. For a few bucks we get a snack, a place to rest for a few minutes out of the elements, and a good conversation. Everyone we’ve met has been very friendly. But the conversations usually leave us wondering, why did you come to Alaska?</div>
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Stopped for a bowl of soup in a roadhouse. An easy afternoon ahead!<br />
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Many of the people running these have started their own little communities. People who live in the area stop by for essentials and tourists come by to fuel up for their trips.<br />
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Guard of the campground, asking for his share of dinner.<br />
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Whatever the reason that people come here, something about Alaska keeps them. It’s big and it’s wild, but it’s also welcoming.<br />
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Trying our luck in Little Tok River<br />
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Today we’re resting in Tok. It’s been a while since our last bike trip and our legs sure are feeling it. Tomorrow we’ll start over the hilly “Top of the World” highway to Dawson City, YT.David Braydenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03168652029329823825noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8617115763088595907.post-63302642811211113562015-06-30T10:56:00.001-07:002015-06-30T10:58:19.172-07:00GOLD! GOLD! GOLD!Screamed the banner headline of the Seattle Post-Intelligencer on July 17, 1897. This was after the S.S. Portland had arrived from St. Michael, Alaska, carrying 68 prospectors and what newspapers said was "a ton of gold." Two days earlier a similarly laden ship had arrived in San Francisco from Alaska. As newspapers spread the word that a great quantity of gold had been found along the Klondike River, a tributary of the Yukon, thousands of prospectors, in the midst of a depression, began to flock North to seek their fortune... And so started the Klondike gold rush...<br />
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We boarded the Oosterdam in Vancouver on June 21, not knowing what lay ahead of us in this upcoming adventure.
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<span style="text-align: left;">After an entire day at sea, the first port of call was Ketchikan, known as Alaska's "first city".</span></div>
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Although a stopping point for stampeders on their way up to the gold rush, Ketchikan's main industry has always been salmon fishing.</div>
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Then it was on to Juneau. Although it is not possible to leave Juneau by road, it is the seat of Alaska's government. That and tourism are the main industries here, and as far as tourism goes it's got a few things going for it.</div>
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First, there's the Mendenhall Glacier.</div>
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And second, there's wildlife.</div>
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Humpback whales bubble net feeding on the abundant herring population.</div>
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The "whale" we found in our room that night.</div>
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There's plenty of sea lions around too.</div>
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Our next stop was the "Gateway to the Klondike": Skagway, Alaska.</div>
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What would have been a harrowing journey over the White Pass trail for the 19th century stampeders, was for us, a roughly one hour beautiful journey by train.</div>
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The most common route taken by the stampeders to reach the gold fields was by boat from the west coast of the continental U.S. to Skagway in Alaska. Then overland via Chilkoot or White Pass to the Yukon River at Whitehorse and then by boat 500 miles to Dawson City.</div>
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The Chilkoot Pass trail was steep and hazardous. Rising 1,000 feet in the last ½ mile, it was known as the "golden staircase": 1,500 steps carved out of snow and ice worked their way to the top of the pass. Too steep for packhorses, stampeders had to "cache" their goods, moving their equipment piecemeal up the mountain.<br />
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Conditions on the White Pass trail were even more horrendous. Steep, narrow and slick, over 3,000 pack animals died on the trail causing it to be dubbed the "dead horse trail".<br />
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Remnants of the trail from 1898 can still be seen along the train route.</div>
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Skagway would be our last port before our final destination of Anchorage. That didn't mean the journey was over though. Our favourite part of the adventure was the day we spent on the ship in Glacier Bay. We saw all kinds of wildlife including: humpbacks, orcas, sea otters and puffins, but the real attraction was the glaciers.</div>
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For the last two nights we've stayed at the lovely Shane and Dave's house in Anchorage, but today it's time to hit the trail and move on.</div>
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I can't wait to see what the overland journey has in store for us.</div>
Jennifer Braydenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08516145994906317592noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8617115763088595907.post-62812667713914034672015-06-30T10:56:00.000-07:002015-06-30T10:56:13.361-07:00Trip Totals<div class="widget-content">
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Distance Travelled: <b><i>24139km</i></b><br /><b><i>478</i></b> Days on the Road<br />Longest Day: <b><i>157km</i></b><br /><b><i>40</i></b> Flat Tires<br />Highest Pass: <b><i>4960m</i></b><br /><b><i>14</i></b> Countries Visited<br />Times Ejected from Bicycle: <b><i>13</i></b></div>
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Jennifer Braydenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08516145994906317592noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8617115763088595907.post-19785692847166920012012-12-17T09:58:00.001-08:002015-06-28T19:08:47.479-07:00El Fin<p>After 478 days and 24139 km we have arrived at our final destination of Ushuaia!</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-73Vs7vLplHA/UM9ctY-xeVI/AAAAAAAAG8Q/Ox1mVdFWAaI/s1600-h/P1070652%25255B11%25255D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px; display: inline" title="P1070652" alt="P1070652" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-76xj13BXiAk/UM9cxGfkDRI/AAAAAAAAG8Y/mOVYmwWxMXI/P1070652_thumb%25255B3%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a> <a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-Ak-ERyvsE4w/UM9c0eqP-KI/AAAAAAAAG8g/SIOjWaG7-QQ/s1600-h/P1070645%25255B7%25255D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px; display: inline" title="P1070645" alt="P1070645" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-eTtL_4s1Dz0/UM9c19UeH-I/AAAAAAAAG8o/v55YXXOm4Ak/P1070645_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p>It was only one day from our last stop at the bakery in Tolhuin. And as before, we rode as part of a group of six cyclists. The road was very pretty and the riding easy.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-8fHAMm16aMo/UM9c5Fw72WI/AAAAAAAAG8w/QoxyC9cRYHU/s1600-h/IMG_1168%25255B8%25255D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px; display: inline" title="IMG_1168" alt="IMG_1168" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-L7AujbBqRI8/UM9c63k6P2I/AAAAAAAAG84/o8N4Jl4S-vU/IMG_1168_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="160"></a></p> <p>Since our arrival we’ve had a bit of time to reflect, and also to ride out to the real “end of the road” in Tierra del Fuego National Park.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-jhe8NGYqQlM/UM9dDQUKQDI/AAAAAAAAG9A/OVy-HXb9m-I/s1600-h/P1070656%25255B8%25255D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px; display: inline" title="P1070656" alt="P1070656" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-emjV98X8cxc/UM9dFPR7ijI/AAAAAAAAG9I/iXa26ixtag8/P1070656_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">The end of the furthest road South in the world at Bahia Lapataia.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-IA3KS5fvOiE/UM9dH1Sp-GI/AAAAAAAAG9Q/T5mzNnlKU-E/s1600-h/P1070634%25255B12%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1070634" alt="P1070634" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-9yYKnN4h5C0/UM9dJ1Qh8hI/AAAAAAAAG9Y/dHg37QTiXG0/P1070634_thumb%25255B3%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p>And now the big question, how do we feel? Surprisingly we each feel quite differently. So here are both of our accounts.</p> <a name='more'></a> <p><strong><em>Jenn</em></strong></p> <p><em>It starts just like any other day with a few exceptions. For one we are now travelling in a pack of six and, it is one of our companion’s birthday. Also, we are fortunate to be staying in a bakery.</em></p> <p><em>The riding starts and I feel a little sluggish, full of cake and empanadas, but after 24000km of riding through all sorts conditions today is relatively easy. So we ride more or less together. Like any other day there are honks of encouragement, and also those of frustration as impatient drivers must wait to pass our “six pack peloton”. </em></p> <p><em>Regardless, spirits are high on account of the relatively good weather and the landscape that has changed back from “pampa pampa pampa” to something more lush, with lakes and rivers and mountains. Could this really be the beginning of the end?</em></p> <p><em>I feel like I finally have my groove. Like I could ride forever and not be phased. I can hold my own in a group. Keep up with the boys on the hills and even lead the peloton when it’s my turn. Being on the bike is natural, I feel like a fish in water. I can’t imagine a day passing without pedaling. </em><em>But my mind is turned away from the sadness of this thought as someone tells a funny story, and things are back to normal.</em></p> <p><em>Today there are two passes to ascend. A year ago these would have been a serious consideration and required a great deal of thought and planning to complete, but now they are just part of the routine. As we start to climb a natural separation occurs as each person finds his/her own rhythm and my thoughts turn inwards again.</em></p> <p><em>I re-live nearly the entire trip on that climb, like it’s my life flashing before my eyes, and I realize I don’t remember anything bad. I know there were bad moments. Moments when I thought I would have given anything to be back in the comforts of home, doing anything but pedaling up another hill, but now those feelings seem so distant. It makes me realize human beings have an incredible capacity for suffering and an immense ability to deal with it and move on. Sure, sometimes life is going to suck, but don’t dwell on it because in the end it’s wasted time. Time that could otherwise be spent enjoying the good parts; the parts worth remembering.</em></p> <p><em>Like free-wheeling down the other side of a pass. Wind in the face; the feeling of flying. That is how I feel as I start the descent. I am overcome by incredible happiness and sadness at the same time. It is too bittersweet. A sense of accomplishment combined with a sense of loss. I am wearing a huge smile, as tears also stream down my face. I am marvelled by my own capacity for emotion. Suddenly I am brought abruptly out of my “moment” as Fritz, pedalling like a madman, catches up and starts screaming/singing “Jenn give me more, give me only ten(km) more”! We are so close.</em></p> <p><em>I am motivated by the group energy and amazed at how six people from different countries and circumstances can come together and in such a short time form a very tight knit sort of family. Despite varying abilities we all wait a couple hundred meters from the entrance to Ushuaia and cross the line together; like a team sharing a victory. A moment that will join us forever.</em></p> <p><em>Two days later Dave and I ride out another 25km to the literal end of the road in Tierra del Fuego National Park. It is pretty and enjoyable, but not too much of an emotional experience for me. I don’t have the same sense of loss anymore. I feel like I have gained. Gained more than a husband, but a partner in life and now that we have shared the most extraordinary experiences of our lives together I feel like we are ready for anything.</em></p> <p><em>Today we will pack up the bikes to get them ready for the plane ride home. I wish I could be packed up in the same sense. Protected from the shock of re-entering a “normal” life; re-learning what “normal” is. I am worried about re-integrating in to the pace of 21st century living. I know that as much as I want to take with me my current ideals of living in the moment and always having time for what really matters, the distractions of our technological world, where despite all the modern conveniences we are busier and more stressed than ever, will make it difficult to keep things in perspective. However, I also know that, as with anything worth doing, the first step is always the hardest. Just like starting this adventure, except now the hard part is ending it.</em></p> <p><em><strong>Dave</strong></em></p> <p><em>So this is it, the last day. At times I ride together with others, at times I ride separate to give myself time to reflect. It’s amazing to be arriving at our destination. But there isn’t a great relief. We haven’t just scraped by. We’ve known that there wasn’t anything that could stop us. And we’ve had this date scheduled since we booked our flight home months ago.</em></p> <p><em>Countless emotions should be running through my head. But I don’t feel anything. I’m still waiting for my “moment”. The signs count down; Ushuaia: 104km, 72, 50, 20 … but still I feel nothing special; it just feels like another day. The scenery is beautiful, the drivers are aggressive, I’m hungry, a hill to climb, a little rain, it’s nice to be riding with friends, hungry again. Compared to many powerful emotional experiences during the trip, this feels pretty tame. But that’s this trip; it’s in the journey and not the destination. </em><em>The only emotion that I do feel is sadness. I can’t believe that this adventure is coming to an end.</em></p> <p><em>Several days later we ride out to Bahia Lapataia. Here is the famous sign which says 17800km to Alaska. We’ve ridden over 24000km. Wow. What a life changing experience … in fact there have been hundreds of life changing experiences! And the best part is that we’ve shared them together.</em></p> <p><em>Surprisingly my “moment” comes later, at the strangest of times. Standing at the urinal in the bathroom I see an advertisement which says “End of the World, Beginning of Everything”. And that sums up how I feel exactly. This dream is over. And it’s time to find a new one. Truly we can accomplish anything that we set our mind to. And now we have the freedom to choose whatever we want. The world is our oyster. I wash my hands, eyes full of tears, and head out for a walk.</em></p> <p><em><img style="margin: 0px auto 1px; display: block; float: none" title="P1070630" alt="P1070630" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-THM6Y9sTg7Y/UM9dLjXOZhI/AAAAAAAAG9g/i2C5YChkSps/P1070630%25255B3%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></em></p> <p>24km from Ushuaia we stopped to talk with some cyclists headed in the other direction. They’ve taken 4.5 hours to ride that far; the same time that our 100km ride from Tolhuin will take. They are headed to Alaska, but our unanimous opinion was that they’d be lucky if they reached Tolhuin. Could this really have been us 16 months ago? Surely not. </p> <p>We stared longingly at their shiny bikes and bags. Ours are dirty, scratched, and covered with duct tape and zap straps and we have strange sounds, broken racks, and a cracked hub. We have received a few bumps and bruises as well, but we have grown so much and learned so much: new cultures, a new language, and new ways of living.</p> <p>Thank you for sharing it with us.</p> DJ Braydenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12014657673408410730noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8617115763088595907.post-16042340603846181732012-12-13T04:18:00.001-08:002015-06-28T19:08:47.473-07:00Into the Land of Fire<p>Tierra del Fuego (“The Land of Fire”) is the Southernmost part of South America. It got its dramatic name from the Portugese explorer Magellan, who spotted the fires that the indigenous used to keep burning on the beaches. But more importantly for us, it contains Ushuaia. This is the literal and figurative end of the road. It goes no further South. And so it’s known as “El Fin del Mundo”, or “The End of the World”.</p> <p>This area of Patagonia is also home to lots of penguins! We were able to see two different kinds: small and rambunctious Magellanic Penguins, and large and regal King Penguins. </p> <p>Near Punta Arenas we visited a penguin colony on Isla Magdalena. Here, approximately 6000 pairs of Magellanic Penguins come to nest each year! They dig burrows in the ground and are now raising chicks.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-axSw599kM3M/UMnGxoxVASI/AAAAAAAACEA/VckCr4LkFPI/s1600-h/P107044514.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1070445" alt="P1070445" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-gM4fah3Eb8c/UMnGzDEaAJI/AAAAAAAACEI/Zb029FGd_2c/P1070445_thumb4.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a> <a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-m6J4TaI_Mc8/UMnG07j_NDI/AAAAAAAACEQ/1rxWEdkDcx8/s1600-h/P107044310.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px; display: inline" title="P1070443" alt="P1070443" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-i8olE9-TCDA/UMnG15PtReI/AAAAAAAACEY/bpCzSfyMX1E/P1070443_thumb3.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-Ex2ISGUNjns/UMnG5aNVFlI/AAAAAAAACEg/BQc3doWmspA/s1600-h/P10704057.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px; display: inline" title="P1070405" alt="P1070405" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-Lf44RsTCKyQ/UMnG6v2R2xI/AAAAAAAACEo/MfTPJsPWBj8/P1070405_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a> <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-aOSIV5qvOhI/UMnG81wdf2I/AAAAAAAACEw/hg-2UI-axzA/s1600-h/P10704257.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px; display: inline" title="P1070425" alt="P1070425" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-sOPvrnPt_Uk/UMnG-CdC3nI/AAAAAAAACE4/ez4_QFkeiAc/P1070425_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="179"></a></p> <a name='more'></a> <p align="center">Watching the exciting Magellanic Penguins wobble to and fro.</p> <p align="left">And in Bahia Inutil (“Useless Bay”) we were able to visit a King Penguin colony. These penguins have just laid eggs and will sit on them for approximately two months. As a bonus, the owners of the land let us camp there for the night. When they closed the gate for the night, it was just us and the penguins. This was definitely one of the coolest experiences of the trip.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-tgmUcHMV2rI/UMnG_xBcZII/AAAAAAAACFA/60saX3fEzP8/s1600-h/P10705957.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px; display: inline" title="P1070595" alt="P1070595" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-oZZ7K94LNPg/UMnHBsBmRpI/AAAAAAAACFI/FhaJBxVAMg4/P1070595_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a> <a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-WYzV0J4LXZI/UMnHFFri6CI/AAAAAAAACFQ/l-z7g9Q2sKc/s1600-h/P10705867.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1070586" alt="P1070586" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-6GURxdYW74o/UMnHGcfMpQI/AAAAAAAACFY/OeSFpsGhCZc/P1070586_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Much better looking, but not so exciting.</p> <p>Since leaving Puerto Natales we’ve been riding with other cyclists we’ve met on the road. It’s been a different experience for us, but it definitely adds a little excitement to the pampa.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-DTUDmtJnErU/UMnHI6RfWkI/AAAAAAAACFk/Eqa0dn3shJc/s1600-h/P10704928.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1070492" alt="P1070492" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-THDRfi0eg-E/UMnHKfVDkXI/AAAAAAAACFs/RFskoc50bZQ/P1070492_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Riding near Porvenir, Chile with Wim (Holland), and Sabrina, Fritz, and Peter (Germany).</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-zfQ82c7kuN4/UMnHNAVTCBI/AAAAAAAACF0/FOOv_ns9E9U/s1600-h/P10704998.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1070499" alt="P1070499" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-ttSajTLg6wQ/UMnHOuAKrMI/AAAAAAAACF8/wOvUI8mP3zI/P1070499_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Perfect roadside campsite, next to a lake with flamingos. We feasted on 5kg of sauerkraut that Wim was given in Punta Arenas.</p> <p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-TKWS30Rjgno/UMnHQN2rtJI/AAAAAAAACGE/ai5cwYLWR3k/s1600-h/P10704894.jpg"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" title="P1070489" alt="P1070489" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-3Cf2a-mpM3U/UMnHRWOrjzI/AAAAAAAACGM/Bp6QwwcKNaQ/P1070489_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="180" height="240"></a></p> <p>Tierra del Fuego is a large island, separated from the mainland by the Strait of Magellan. Politically, it’s arbitrarily cut in half by Argentina and Chile. But it has a unique and distinct flavour. The land is bleak, and beautiful in its own way. Oh, and it’s windy … really, really, ridiculously windy.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-WIoQvelamq8/UMnHTqzd1iI/AAAAAAAACGU/BM5HNtQQ77c/s1600-h/P107050611.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1070506" alt="P1070506" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-VO6icl4z3J0/UMnHVb4rnxI/AAAAAAAACGc/PA-8OzGuP4M/P1070506_thumb3.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a> <a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-TOWfpk3DuAw/UMnHW5bPaKI/AAAAAAAACGk/uYWicQJFEBw/s1600-h/P107051711.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1070517" alt="P1070517" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-z3O5NPGKALc/UMnHYZuDdPI/AAAAAAAACGs/u_sKnlG15zM/P1070517_thumb3.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-h8JNzNbw_Qk/UMnHacYudyI/AAAAAAAACG0/Qsz5CNBONNM/s1600-h/P107051311.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1070513" alt="P1070513" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-ThEpe4XQbvY/UMnHcTgPyyI/AAAAAAAACG8/FJVYrvyPrS4/P1070513_thumb3.jpg?imgmax=800" width="180" height="240"></a> <a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-dtdu-GvI1_o/UMnHfMVpwMI/AAAAAAAACHE/IS4iE93mpaI/s1600-h/P107060911.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px; display: inline" title="P1070609" alt="P1070609" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/--pMt7Lf-wIg/UMnHgI2EJJI/AAAAAAAACHM/mx1qQ9D72OI/P1070609_thumb3.jpg?imgmax=800" width="180" height="240"></a></p> <p align="center">Sights of the road: run down houses, wind, sheep, and old man’s beard.</p> <p>And now, with mixed emotions, we find ourselves getting closer and closer to Ushuaia.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-YWOb-EFgno8/UMnHh0J5OxI/AAAAAAAACHU/0RT9W8DGUBM/s1600-h/P10706004.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1070600" alt="P1070600" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-9z440xsGdmk/UMnHjnWi0KI/AAAAAAAACHc/d5GjG0KzUv4/P1070600_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Crossing back into Argentina, three days from Ushuaia.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-avk6pa5riYg/UMnHlW6swiI/AAAAAAAACHk/kGfx4-RLUVs/s1600-h/P10706028.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1070602" alt="P1070602" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-0bItMcV58YA/UMnHmtF5-UI/AAAAAAAACHs/vUksrJ1KG1M/P1070602_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Rio Grande, only two days from Ushuaia. Famous for 20 pound brown trout!</p> <p>Today we arrived in Tolhuin, only one day from Ushuaia. There’s a bakery here which is internationally famous among cyclists. When we arrived, soaking wet, we were ushered in and given a cup of coffee, baked goods, and a place for the night. After a hot shower, we were spontaneously invited to dinner at the home of a friendly family, and even had money to pay for the cab fare forced upon us. All we knew when we arrived was their names (this is what we told the taxi driver), but by the end we’d learned a ton about the area. The kindness was almost overwhelming!</p> <p>So the next time you hear from us, we’ll be in Ushuaia. After 15 months we really have no idea how it’s going to feel … we’ll let you know when we get there!</p> David Braydenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03168652029329823825noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8617115763088595907.post-15289256326543022892012-12-05T10:23:00.001-08:002015-06-28T19:08:47.469-07:00Pampa, Pampa, Pampa<p>Southern Patagonia is an intense place. This region of the Andes is filled with jagged peaks and dynamic glaciers that extend almost to sea-level. The mountains in the West give way to vast, dry grasslands in the East. These windwhipped plains are called “pampa” here. And they are so vast and empty that one usually says “pampa, pampa, pampa” when referring to them.</p> <p>Our time has been split between riding through the mind-numbing pampa and excursions into the mind-blowing Patagonian Andes.</p> <p>The pampa (pampa, pampa) is notoriously windy. Life is spectacular with the wind at your back (30-40km/hr), horrible with the wind at your front (5-12km/hr), and frustrating with it at your side (12-18km/hr). We count ourselves lucky that nobody has been blown clean off the bicycle … yet.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-vqjl2R1ZRY0/UL-QP3aNYgI/AAAAAAAAB9M/13no8lkoNdA/s1600-h/P1070224%25255B7%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Super windy here ... better hold on!" alt="Super windy here ... better hold on!" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-kUY-N21edmY/UL-QRD8MGzI/AAAAAAAAB9U/3h-8KikhKYc/P1070224_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a> <a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-Rb5jruq7oEw/UL-QTMvZ8qI/AAAAAAAAB9c/Kh54m2C387o/s1600-h/P1070225%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Windy times ... better hold on!" alt="Windy times ... better hold on!" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-nq8rfPEmHhc/UL-QUZQ6h4I/AAAAAAAAB9k/wcclliVgOpc/P1070225_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">A sign of the times.</p>
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<p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-7zAdtGvHRD0/UL-QWYYpAcI/AAAAAAAAB9s/aZ87r3qn4C0/s1600-h/P1070298%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Guanacos in the pampa." alt="Guanacos in the pampa." src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-zMRhIoR45aE/UL-QXf_J9vI/AAAAAAAAB90/eUG3vnT7kMI/P1070298_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a> <a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-P-wAOyAtkAo/UL-QZEf5PlI/AAAAAAAAB98/-qtGlaSuXKU/s1600-h/P1070304%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="A fox in the pampa." alt="A fox in the pampa." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-pZ9WmXgYvDI/UL-QaDjosmI/AAAAAAAAB-E/9WRGbb6Echs/P1070304_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">There are quite a few animals who call the pampa home. Guanacos (an undomesticated relative of the llama) and foxes are common.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-DtNtf2_5oW0/UL-QbxbghQI/AAAAAAAAB-M/chsL5328rVY/s1600-h/P1070301%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="A common sight on the Patagonian roads." alt="A common sight on the Patagonian roads." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-_w-jyzwvdpQ/UL-Qcy7-USI/AAAAAAAAB-U/u8gxzghxJ_0/P1070301_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a> <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Q2yoFWZ4VV0/UL-QeUYZnyI/AAAAAAAAB-c/drhf4wTcyxc/s1600-h/P1070289%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Patagonian sheep (not lamb) dinner. Heads and shoulders the best meal of the trip. So good we had to go back and talk with the chef about how he cooks the sheep." alt="Patagonian sheep (not lamb) dinner. Heads and shoulders the best meal of the trip. So good we had to go back and talk with the chef about how he cooks the sheep." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-DQef2XYM-hw/UL-QfjaOUMI/AAAAAAAAB-k/JjK79Qp4Th0/P1070289_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">But sheep are the most common sight on the roads as they frantically run from us on our bicycles. Sheep (not lamb) slow cooked whole over a fire is the regional dish. It was head and shoulders the best meal of our trip!</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-atGnNEe-rs0/UL-QgxPtlzI/AAAAAAAAB-s/r-UWTMvpIik/s1600-h/P1070307%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Torres del Paine in the distance." alt="Torres del Paine in the distance." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-cDKVbWuQYRU/UL-QiG1D8MI/AAAAAAAAB-0/dDu0sRTii4E/P1070307_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Always with the gorgeous mountains in the West as a backdrop. The world famous Torres del Paine, Chile.</p> <p>Our first return to the mountains took us to El Calafate, Argentina and the awe-inspiring Perito Moreno Glacier. The glacier extends to only several hundred meters from a peninsula jutting out into Lago Viedma. And it advances at almost 3m a day, meaning that enormous chunks of ice frequently crash into the lake only meters from the peninsula.</p> <p><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-HS2Co9tRUGY/UL-QjnrBSVI/AAAAAAAAB-8/HOkhAKpGcWM/s1600-h/P1070287%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" title="Glacier Perito Moreno, Argentina." alt="Glacier Perito Moreno, Argentina." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-4lwZjMW6NRo/UL-QlsUSM8I/AAAAAAAAB_E/kuhm7ODFaeg/P1070287_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Perito Moreno Glacier flowing downwads from the Campo del Hielo Sur (Southern Ice-Field).</p> <p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-ZQHWbe4gk68/UL-QnEhms6I/AAAAAAAAB_M/zsJBRL2Hlok/s1600-h/P1070247%252520Stitch%25255B9%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" title="Crowds on the pasarelas at Glacier Perito Moreno, Argentina." alt="Crowds on the pasarelas at Glacier Perito Moreno, Argentina." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-dZ_fWf_nkzU/UL-QoBy4pTI/AAAAAAAAB_U/ClPyRxOcMIU/P1070247%252520Stitch_thumb%25255B3%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="480" height="234"></a></p> <p align="center">Crowds gathered on the pasarelas (walkways) to watch the ice calving into the lake. </p> <p>With good reason, this is one of Argentina’s biggest tourist destinations. People come from all over the world to watch and cheer when a big piece falls… ruining the atmosphere that we would prefer. However, there were a few times when we had a platform to ourselves and could get lost in the enormity of it, hearing only the creaks and groans, then the unexpected roar, crash, shockwave, and slow tidal wave of a big piece falling.</p> <p>Between El Calafate, Argentina and Puerto Natales, Chile we rode through about 300km of pampa (pampa, pampa).</p> <p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-bmygKuld7sU/UL-Qp0cKGoI/AAAAAAAAB_c/POliTpMSSO0/s1600-h/P1070305%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" title="Broken rear hub ... damn! And so close to the end of the trip!" alt="Broken rear hub ... damn! And so close to the end of the trip!" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-pHu24PUtZBs/UL-Qqwxr41I/AAAAAAAAB_k/UEOoojjNvGQ/P1070305_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">“Dave, your wheel looks really wobbly …” The most unexpected mechanical failure of the trip: a cracked rear hub. We didn’t even know this happens!</p> <p><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-18VvZh46E3k/UL-QszTsHDI/AAAAAAAAB_s/cSglj5bIP4g/s1600-h/P1070311%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" title="Our wonderful home for the night in a highway shelter." alt="Our wonderful home for the night in a highway shelter." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-g_PZlKBGPuw/UL-QuXe4RzI/AAAAAAAAB_0/cpdq376EQZ8/P1070311_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">A highway shed made a perfect shelter after a frustrating day with an average speed of 11km/hr on flat roads. Think it looks disgusting? … we thought it was paradise!</p> <p align="left">Puerto Natales is located near world famous Torres del Paine National Park in Chile. It is a picturesque fishing village turned hub for all the tourists heading to the park.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-F1xaHpS70QA/UL-QwBKgRnI/AAAAAAAAB_8/q4DXhrWAn30/s1600-h/P1070317%25255B8%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Picturesque Puerto Natales, Chile." alt="Picturesque Puerto Natales, Chile." src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-lgy9HLtF5hM/UL-QxaM9xDI/AAAAAAAACAE/cXql_zPY2i0/P1070317_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a> <a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-cW56wiwzdRI/UL-Qy5IBPjI/AAAAAAAACAM/jt3wHW2P_mI/s1600-h/P1070315%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Picturesque Puerto Natales, Chile." alt="Picturesque Puerto Natales, Chile." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-6oB3CeWen9Y/UL-QzmpSxQI/AAAAAAAACAU/HqpatALHUF4/P1070315_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Charming Puerto Natales, Chile.</p> <p>Like everyone else, we went for a hike in the park called the “W Trek”. It is beautiful, but known for rain, wind, snow, and suffering tourists.</p> <p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-HNPgD-jCci4/UL-Q1z1jUkI/AAAAAAAACAc/Y8_4SbZgWXE/s1600-h/P1070394%25255B8%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" title="The Torres del Paine massif, Chile." alt="The Torres del Paine massif, Chile." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-Md-Fmu-lzR4/UL-Q23bV4OI/AAAAAAAACAk/E69-GpEA5eE/P1070394_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">The Torres del Paine massif from the park entrance. The hike forms a W shape on the left side of the mountains.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-vVOKu0CYb4I/UL-Q5Bog05I/AAAAAAAACAs/kJ0OPHRN2qY/s1600-h/P1070325%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Colours abound in Torres del Paine, Chile." alt="Colours abound in Torres del Paine, Chile." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-1bl4zK3hxWU/UL-Q6eL-SxI/AAAAAAAACA0/O-mWkTxBYeU/P1070325_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a> <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-DF9fQhfAs7E/UL-Q8yivpNI/AAAAAAAACA8/ii_6d-lAkKE/s1600-h/P1070338%25255B8%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Forest in Torres del Paine, Chile." alt="Forest in Torres del Paine, Chile." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-BeHjp0t4gno/UL-Q96BS7lI/AAAAAAAACBE/Mbv8Um05Im8/P1070338_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">We had lots of rain (and snow) to start the hike. Fortunately the lush terrain kept us entertained.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-u-XbArP-SyY/UL-Q_ohknpI/AAAAAAAACBM/V8f74nYVAwg/s1600-h/P1070336%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Checking out the burnt forest in Torres del Paine, Chile." alt="Checking out the burnt forest in Torres del Paine, Chile." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-jOzYgGwwfyM/UL-RAlWx5oI/AAAAAAAACBU/kmRxivovk24/P1070336_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="180" height="240"></a> <a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-uBXuSKpqal4/UL-RCh6lPTI/AAAAAAAACBc/ppH7zYTkzQw/s1600-h/P1070328%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Life starting to recover in Torres del Paine, Chile." alt="Life starting to recover in Torres del Paine, Chile." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-x1oitHiRJtE/UL-RDwvUBcI/AAAAAAAACBk/PQTIf7KQxEw/P1070328_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="180" height="240"></a></p> <p align="center">Last year a careless hiker started a fire (while trying to burn their toilet paper that they were too lazy to carry with them) which burned 10% of the park. Jenn contemplating the ashes and, as always, life beginning anew.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-cOAQ2otZtRY/UL-RFI6X0AI/AAAAAAAACBs/Ud9GjVLT_kM/s1600-h/P1070348%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Mountains peeking out in Torres del Paine, Chile." alt="Mountains peeking out in Torres del Paine, Chile." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-cr8dIyBkPEs/UL-RGFiD5tI/AAAAAAAACB0/MkFVeoAoMdY/P1070348_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a> <a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-R9ivFs3LXf8/UL-RIM7c4HI/AAAAAAAACB8/bLZCmpojhVk/s1600-h/P1070355%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Glacier in Valle Frances, Torres del Paine, Chile." alt="Glacier in Valle Frances, Torres del Paine, Chile." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-R91ueSmlcII/UL-RJizWG7I/AAAAAAAACCE/SYq7J61v_mw/P1070355_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Sights of the Valle Frances (The French Valley).</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-0F_brdfsGlY/UL-RLqSOysI/AAAAAAAACCM/caGiuv1ABsk/s1600-h/P1070364%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="In front of the Cuernos in Torres del Paine, Chile." alt="In front of the Cuernos in Torres del Paine, Chile." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-Dy6Gu0rA7Yc/UL-RMYnw43I/AAAAAAAACCU/Wv9UVy4LDUQ/P1070364_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Jenn with the Cuernos (The Horns).</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-iivhDINK2V4/UL-RN9fws_I/AAAAAAAACCc/Pu3wDnz2ibA/s1600-h/P1070370%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="The famous towers of Torres del Paine, Chile." alt="The famous towers of Torres del Paine, Chile." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-yLH7iMfKpbI/UL-RO4J-waI/AAAAAAAACCk/GPln1XWx-yo/P1070370_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="180" height="240"></a></p> <p align="center">And the park’s showcase attraction, the towers. Our jaws dropped (and we immediately tripped and stumbled) as we rounded the corner to this viewpoint.</p> <p>From here we continue through the pampa (pampa, pampa), slowly closing in on Tierra del Fuego and Ushuaia, Argentina. Wish us tailwinds!</p> David Braydenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03168652029329823825noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8617115763088595907.post-35899137578060729192012-11-27T19:12:00.001-08:002015-06-28T19:08:47.485-07:00Closer and Closer<p>Like a carrot to a donkey the Fitz Roy massif has drawn us in. It has been our familiar view while navigating wind swept lakes, boggy trails and remote borders. </p> <p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-_Mndtt5oupk/ULWFzmsWOrI/AAAAAAAABBw/tq6-GN8c4AQ/s1600-h/P1070127%25255B5%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" title="Fitz Roy and Poincenot." alt="Fitz Roy and Poincenot." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-UaqI7n_FrH4/ULWF0w0P8eI/AAAAAAAABB4/4zY1iMZWocI/P1070127_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p>After finishing up nearly 1000km of beautiful, wild riding on the Carretera Austral in Chile it was time to cross back in to Argentina. An adventure all its own.</p> <a name='more'></a> <p>It would start with a rather expensive boat ride across Lago O’Higgins, where we received our first glimpses of Fitz Roy, and a visit to the O’Higgins Glacier.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-rzuYPiF9WjY/ULWKhfokuKI/AAAAAAAABC4/GgmUH27YqYE/s1600-h/P1060956%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Glacier O'Higgins." alt="Glacier O'Higgins." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/--cfna7QD46c/ULWKiiyDOuI/AAAAAAAABDA/g3obdlbvswI/P1060956_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a> <a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-Kxic-shRnNo/ULWKkg2wmEI/AAAAAAAABDI/eV6HUwzd8Ls/s1600-h/P1060934%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Fitz Roy in the distance, from Lago O'Higgins." alt="Fitz Roy in the distance, from Lago O'Higgins." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-C1r7Cp7aC8c/ULWKlmJtZ7I/AAAAAAAABDQ/_tDevywsxDk/P1060934_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Braving the strong winds on deck and tiny Fitz Roy in the distance.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-L1yuR-Ydba8/ULWKnm_m23I/AAAAAAAABDY/TqaOdcqJ8aY/s1600-h/P1060964%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Glacier O'Higgins." alt="Glacier O'Higgins." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-C5ivLOQKWa4/ULWKotXcaUI/AAAAAAAABDg/TbAPTI0E9XY/P1060964_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a> <a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-c5JVH3mxFOk/ULWKqZXA7XI/AAAAAAAABDo/xPk_Atv7FkA/s1600-h/P1060971%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Whiskey with glacier ice." alt="Whiskey with glacier ice." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-pon2z_5NGO0/ULWKriH_7rI/AAAAAAAABDw/6NxuzkNO5nI/P1060971_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">A rare sight; blue ice broken off from underneath the glacier prevents us getting too close, but is stunning in itself. Jenn enjoying the complimentary whiskey served on the (glacier) rocks.</p> <p align="left">A wavy eight hours later we arrived at the south end of the lake in the settlement of Candelario Mansilla. We were a little motion sick, but none the worse for wear. We took care of our Chilean exit stamps and began the 25km trail separating us from Argentinian customs.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-CcR5lkRKeXA/ULWKt9mrhgI/AAAAAAAABD4/eCcxrjyrNwk/s1600-h/P1060997%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Hike up from Candelaria Mancilla." alt="Hike up from Candelaria Mancilla." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-XQ2yavnuKJU/ULWKu0y7SgI/AAAAAAAABEA/t4PrC7LcrAs/P1060997_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a> <a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-6OeLxokNsmM/ULWKxXUEMaI/AAAAAAAABEI/wrEjDxkO7Ic/s1600-h/P1070011%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="We could even ride some parts of the 4x4 track on the Chilean side. Always with a view of Fitz Roy." alt="We could even ride some parts of the 4x4 track on the Chilean side. Always with a view of Fitz Roy." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-90VPtyKcgMw/ULWKytTJbXI/AAAAAAAABEQ/RpWg6byHC8Q/P1070011_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">The Chilean side is a rough 4x4 road which is mostly rideable in the flat sections. Fitz Roy growing in the distance.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-8F8oa7PmAu0/ULWK0htJAfI/AAAAAAAABEY/zZD_UvU-Ybg/s1600-h/P1070016%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Welcome (back) to Argentina!" alt="Welcome (back) to Argentina!" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-u9kZrb9oXNE/ULWK17D24aI/AAAAAAAABEg/qdfy_kSFSk0/P1070016_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="180" height="240"></a> <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-hu4X1ZDx0NU/ULWK4cbbSLI/AAAAAAAABEo/j-_o9WAHqFs/s1600-h/P1070023%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="No bridges on the Argentian side." alt="No bridges on the Argentian side." src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-hrNQRDq-zeA/ULWK5vo6CbI/AAAAAAAABEw/_0uw-QMwb7E/P1070023_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="180" height="240"></a></p> <p align="center">Then we entered Argentina and things changed…</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-sOJHkvYmy3s/ULWK8cP5DDI/AAAAAAAABE4/7pHIkdtUrB0/s1600-h/P1070018%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Bad trails necessitate carrying most of the weight on our backs so we can lift the bikes." alt="Bad trails necessitate carrying most of the weight on our backs so we can lift the bikes." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-R6j3YzSc7Po/ULWK9TDFdxI/AAAAAAAABFA/jeZipWshAGg/P1070018_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="180" height="240"></a> <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-M_gIrRZ8OxU/ULWLAPHkKnI/AAAAAAAABFI/OLynz24aS0E/s1600-h/P1070020%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Carrying the bike across a stream on sketchy logs on the Argentinian side." alt="Carrying the bike across a stream on sketchy logs on the Argentinian side." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-7bgV2l33HB0/ULWLBWa4sPI/AAAAAAAABFQ/UdbpFGt51d8/P1070020_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="180" height="240"></a></p> <p align="center">We took most of the weight off the bikes and packed it on our backs to make maneuvering the bikes easier. A good tactic for log crossings like this. </p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-bvi2lODHOWU/ULWLDMRSt_I/AAAAAAAABFY/dxEIGyyTdoc/s1600-h/P1070029%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Nearing Lago del Desierto and the end of this hike-a-bike." alt="Nearing Lago del Desierto and the end of this hike-a-bike." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-w7KMeHIMHV0/ULWLEZj5VwI/AAAAAAAABFg/D_GwpcAjJK0/P1070029_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="180" height="240"></a></p> <p align="center">Five hours later we could see the north end of Lago del Desierto, Argentinian customs and the boat that would take us across.</p> <p align="left">We had heard reports that the boat across Lago del Desierto was no longer in service and the alternative was an even worse trail around the lake taking two days for only 16km. So we ran down the last few kilometers of severely rutted trail to arrive at customs just after the boat left. In true Latin American fashion the border guard radioed it back for us and had our passports stamped and ready to go just as it pulled up.</p> <p align="left"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-620_oBFBbbE/ULWLIaRCPFI/AAAAAAAABFo/MWVjFjC7cuI/s1600-h/P1070039%25255B8%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" title="Bad ripio, but the views make push onwards." alt="Bad ripio, but the views make push onwards." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-R_7HxlK2Pu8/ULWLJQnETsI/AAAAAAAABFw/UMDhqLx5_74/P1070039_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">After another nauseating boat ride, all that stood between us and Fitz Roy was 40km of really bad dirt road.</p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-sSDhW3KUddU/ULWLMj7EgKI/AAAAAAAABF4/5F5ZVD7m3Io/s1600-h/P1070034%25255B8%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" title="First good catch, made of a delicious dinner." alt="First good catch, made of a delicious dinner." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-xGX8VIE0vao/ULWLNpVnmlI/AAAAAAAABGA/pU_tMBKmBYc/P1070034_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="180" height="240"></a></p> <p align="center">So we stayed the night, camped alongside the river and caught this beautiful Rainbow Trout for dinner.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-JpTErT0A1CU/ULWLP2fWT6I/AAAAAAAABGI/RUEavHsrh3A/s1600-h/P1070085%25255B8%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Fitz Roy looming over El Chalten." alt="Fitz Roy looming over El Chalten." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-IO-Dn3DzN8Y/ULWLREFuC4I/AAAAAAAABGQ/wIrEX9-Afbs/P1070085_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Arriving in El Chalten (the town name is the original indigenous name for Fitz Roy, which means “smoking mountain”). Fitz Roy dominates the horizon.</p> <p align="left">We ended up staying in El Chalten for almost a week. Resting on the bad weather days and hiking on the nice ones.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-6D9tJt--SjU/ULWLT8nZ65I/AAAAAAAABGY/4vKBN-UvDZE/s1600-h/P1070075%25255B12%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Laguna Torre, Glacier Torre and Cerro Torre hidden in the clouds." alt="Laguna Torre, Glacier Torre and Cerro Torre hidden in the clouds." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-J1-2cP5l0zs/ULWLU05TKKI/AAAAAAAABGg/EMmfmyJVP3s/P1070075_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a> <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-ysIYJa4P5Qo/ULWLXhImHCI/AAAAAAAABGo/OC9VY9c8aCM/s1600-h/P1070059%252520%2525281024x768%252529%25255B11%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="So much wind!" alt="So much wind!" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-M-zauNNH7m0/ULWLZB54whI/AAAAAAAABGw/hEzrXrDW6mc/P1070059%252520%2525281024x768%252529_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="259" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Taking in Laguna Torre and the glacier on a less ideal day. Maybe we can’t see the famous tower of Cerro Torre, but we can “enjoy” the notorious wind.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-1ehQ259Ax1g/ULWLauCpN4I/AAAAAAAABG4/1HmKy3g4GQA/s1600-h/P1070108%252520Stitch%25255B11%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Fitz Roy and glaciers panorama." alt="Fitz Roy and glaciers panorama." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-guiJ7Y4EmQc/ULWLbzxAluI/AAAAAAAABHA/Z4Gj0ViGMGg/P1070108%252520Stitch_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="450" height="165"></a></p> <p align="center">Good weather means spectacular views of the whole Fitz Roy group and Piedras Blancas Glacier on the right.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-pDHQmCCqcCY/ULWLdjI2hEI/AAAAAAAABHI/7cCqfvsJgI4/s1600-h/P1070102%25255B8%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Fitz Roy Mirador." alt="Fitz Roy Mirador." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-3ZZNM4oMQgo/ULWLeoLLj4I/AAAAAAAABHQ/LGaVB6klDMM/P1070102_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="180" height="240"></a> <a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-UoSTSz-iOaw/ULWLgOLb8lI/AAAAAAAABHY/gCahU81rBco/s1600-h/P1070104%25255B8%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Bird in front of Fitz Roy." alt="Bird in front of Fitz Roy." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-QMC_wgWE8u8/ULWLhyrynFI/AAAAAAAABHg/NUYcET-3tsU/P1070104_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="180" height="240"></a></p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-UZawHqw8UIM/ULWLj2Xzs1I/AAAAAAAABHo/X6b6nExhOHA/s1600-h/P1070167%252520Stitch%252520%2525282%252529%25255B18%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Fitz Roy and Laguna Sucia panorama." alt="Fitz Roy and Laguna Sucia panorama." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-Dl6MRhWs90I/ULWLlurPstI/AAAAAAAABHw/kOAwPP7zOM4/P1070167%252520Stitch%252520%2525282%252529_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="420" height="200"></a></p> <p align="center">Views of Fitz Roy on the hike up to Laguna de los Tres.</p> <p align="left">Overall we were lucky with the weather and very lucky to have met wonderful folks like Florencia and Mario. They hosted us in El Chalten with open arms and open hearts. They taught us how to make empanadas and a bit about the local flora and fauna. Mario also repaired Dave’s “franken-rack” for the fourth time.</p> <p align="left"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-bcAVZZ5GLqg/ULWLobdIyeI/AAAAAAAABH4/4Jl0u-KDjVA/s1600-h/P1070197%25255B8%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" title="P1070197" alt="P1070197" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-k8kzfEYcKzQ/ULWLpSxOBQI/AAAAAAAABIA/DGwJJ9T-gyg/P1070197_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="180" height="240"></a></p> <p align="center">Florencia, her son Franklin, Mario and Dave enjoying a visit to the waterfall near town.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-g7zUmsf_tpg/ULWLrhL7CFI/AAAAAAAABII/4yny9nZLD2k/s1600-h/P1070213%25255B8%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1070213" alt="P1070213" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-AOVThZnF3iQ/ULWLs-sRYvI/AAAAAAAABIQ/xekv2NBxqLM/P1070213_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p>We are sad to turn our backs on Fitz Roy and say good-bye to our friends here as we continue South into the dry and windy side of Patagonia. This brings us one step closer to Tierra del Fuego (The Land of Fire) and our final destination of Ushuaia … now less than one month away. Jennifer Braydenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08516145994906317592noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8617115763088595907.post-66889351914250082512012-11-22T08:22:00.001-08:002015-06-28T19:10:20.935-07:00What is the Carretera Austral?<p>The Carretera Austral (The Southern Highway) connects communities in the remote and rugged Patagonian region in the South of Chile. We travelled from Futaleufu to Villa O’Higgins in about 15 days of cycling. It’s definitely our favourite section of the trip so far but we can’t exactly say why. In this post we detail seven different things that the Carretera Austral and the region of Aysen are to us:</p> <p><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-BB5hgejS51M/UK01uiyj9TI/AAAAAAAAGbE/0YDW3w65hTQ/s1600-h/P10609164.jpg"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" title="P1060916" alt="P1060916" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-V3rB3WUoUxI/UK2ERh1khlI/AAAAAAAAGbs/y_hKkNyraCA/P1060916_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p><strong><em>Beautiful</em></strong></p> <p>Above all, the terrain is gorgeous. The road winds through mountains and glaciers, and around turquoise lakes.</p> <a name='more'></a> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-e2ku_qd-tDM/UK2EYkelERI/AAAAAAAAGb0/hmq2SJdIvZU/s1600-h/P10607824.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1060782" alt="P1060782" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-3o_trk9vOCg/UK2EcFZbZEI/AAAAAAAAGb8/CrBFvLq_zX8/P1060782_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Riding along the gorgeous Lago General Carrera on a windless day.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-ycKjYSDLAOs/UK2ElA_HuQI/AAAAAAAAGcE/Ae99d43rKuk/s1600-h/P10608024.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1060802" alt="P1060802" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-tTknHSX2N78/UK2EnlllzpI/AAAAAAAAGcM/HEMgdW1icdY/P1060802_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Glaciers not so far above the junction of Lago General Carrera and Lago Bertrand.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-BxZ1_jlpmPI/UK2EwiLPyfI/AAAAAAAAGcU/9XIT23kw6Ws/s1600-h/P10609084.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1060908" alt="P1060908" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-477hh55XCAU/UK2Ey7LieXI/AAAAAAAAGcc/hy5jND7z2Gk/P1060908_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="180" height="240"></a></p> <p align="center">I don’t even know the name of this lake or mountains. There was just so much beautiful scenery.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-6io6lFQUR_s/UK2E7FEHbxI/AAAAAAAAGck/c2cyc--Cw-Y/s1600-h/P10605978.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Ventisquero Colgante in Parque Nacional Queulat, Chile." alt="Ventisquero Colgante in Parque Nacional Queulat, Chile." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-FCBM4ci0CV0/UK2E-I0LNRI/AAAAAAAAGcs/abBcCGKtfZ0/P1060597_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Ventisquero Colgante in Parque Nacional Queulat.</p> <p><strong><em>Wet</em></strong></p> <p>Patagonia is known for some pretty adverse weather. This area in particular gets a lot of rain. Some areas up to 5000mm per year!</p> <p>To start our trip we got really wet. In our first seven days on the Carretera we had five days of rain, and one of snow … yuck.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-hIm_NOM15oo/UK2FHjXh4oI/AAAAAAAAGc0/XFxt9Q_nUAY/s1600-h/P10606594.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1060659" alt="P1060659" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-cXaRBd8bqWE/UK2FLO6OG9I/AAAAAAAAGc8/w_Nu-sgPQHM/P1060659_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Riding through a clearing snowstorm in Paso Cerro Castillo.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-zD2wNAO4UrI/UK2FY70cRtI/AAAAAAAAGdE/gzfNQfsyOH8/s1600-h/P10606347.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px; display: inline" title="P1060634" alt="P1060634" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-SHjVBvcmp2E/UK2FbRbYG0I/AAAAAAAAGdM/iAY69q7mfbU/P1060634_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Building storm over Coyhaique, the regions biggest city.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-7lf80wDy2sE/UK2Ft2dalkI/AAAAAAAAGdU/MIozTtUe9hQ/s1600-h/P10605574.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Waterfall near Villa Santa Lucia, Chile." alt="Waterfall near Villa Santa Lucia, Chile." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-Q9ub_HfHzDc/UK2Fz_9EN9I/AAAAAAAAGdc/tPeFJdMc_YE/P1060557_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="180" height="240"></a> <a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-YLgjfqFzeJQ/UK2F_c05lDI/AAAAAAAAGdk/UT5vIWJY184/s1600-h/P10606334.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1060633" alt="P1060633" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-ztk7wh95Rkw/UK2GCFkRZGI/AAAAAAAAGds/IXglZariL9w/P1060633_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="180" height="240"></a></p> <p align="center">All the rain meant that the waterfalls were flowing with full force. And they were everywhere! In fact, Parque Nacional Queulat means “the sound of running water”.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-oqZwh58mhm0/UK2GR2QvXMI/AAAAAAAAGd0/a-1vh9af-ec/s1600-h/P10606564.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1060656" alt="P1060656" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-mNmPrS6I4f8/UK2GUzjYHCI/AAAAAAAAGd8/JLT48Ue4rYc/P1060656_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">This huemul (an endangered species of deer) wasn’t detered by the snowstorm.</p> <p><strong><em>Interesting</em></strong></p> <p>The road was originally constructed between 1976 and 1988 by the harsh Chilean dictator Augosto Pinochet to protect Chile’s sovereignty in the region. Some sections weren’t even finished until 2003! So, while there are definitely tourists, there aren’t so many that the region has lost its flavour.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-yTCDJwI0eJc/UK2GgjkwDgI/AAAAAAAAGeE/XeJPB-t824U/s1600-h/P10607684.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1060768" alt="P1060768" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-9xb4_N8IFG4/UK2GkI3dvyI/AAAAAAAAGeM/gky83g_QfW8/P1060768_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">The gorgeous Capillas de Marmol (Marble Chapels) in Lago General Carrera. The caves are made of some of the purest marble in the world. The light reflecting off the turquoise lake is absolutely jaw-dropping.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-IqwPLI5s8h0/UK2Gw9WiSEI/AAAAAAAAGeU/x_nKF-AIhlM/s1600-h/P10607518.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Capillas de Marmol, Laguna General Carrera, Chile." alt="Capillas de Marmol, Laguna General Carrera, Chile." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-3ZhPd-OJE7M/UK2G05QwZ_I/AAAAAAAAGec/NXvPKYBFzA0/P1060751_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Jenn checking out the marble.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-noVccXmWe2E/UK2HE57G8uI/AAAAAAAAGek/2vnfT4wlm8I/s1600-h/P10605724.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Our wonderful and interesting warmshowers hosts in La Junta, Chile." alt="Our wonderful and interesting warmshowers hosts in La Junta, Chile." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-sUk0dq9qSrU/UK2HHlHAnoI/AAAAAAAAGes/cg6RThm__ws/P1060572_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">The harder the place, the friendlier the people. We had many interesting conversations during the trip about the region. As usual, we had wonderful hospitality from three different warmshowers hosts, like that of <a href="http://ourlittlething.ning.com/" target="_blank">Paul and Konomi</a>.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-TChLIcPHTa0/UK2HQPynrdI/AAAAAAAAGe0/Z8ppxLU3Bjk/s1600-h/P10608864.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1060886" alt="P1060886" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-jH_tfJmhHgQ/UK5Hk13WqMI/AAAAAAAAGiI/NZxQGI0e9VM/P1060886_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Caleta Tortel is a community of loggers who harvest fallen cypress trees. The village only became accessible by road in 2003. Before that there was only a once a week ferry.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-LYpI6Ykg_OQ/UK5Hqo83bdI/AAAAAAAAGiQ/LbOk85jB5zE/s1600-h/P10608924.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1060892" alt="P1060892" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-K-JfCvRj17U/UK5HsYm9vAI/AAAAAAAAGiY/TG53SmLBRyM/P1060892_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="180" height="240"></a></p> <p align="center">Instead of roads, Caleta Tortel is connected by a series of cypress boardwalks.</p> <p><strong><em>Difficult</em></strong></p> <p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-JD5Lix7Xg-8/UK5Hz31bMeI/AAAAAAAAGig/IPPWNFvqAG8/s1600-h/P10606127.jpg"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" title="Descending from a pass in Parque Nacional Queulat, Chile" alt="Descending from a pass in Parque Nacional Queulat, Chile" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-U3yet7TwcaE/UK5H27lSYgI/AAAAAAAAGio/7Jtfs1lUIHw/P1060612_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Descending steep switchbacks from the pass in Parque Nacional Queulat.</p> <p>The road is 1200km long and about 250km are paved. In some places the ripio (dirt road) is good quality, but in many places it’s very difficult to ride on because it’s made of whatever fill is nearby (so if the road follows a river, it’s made of stones from the riverbed). Couple this with some really steep hills and bad weather and you’ve got yourself a pretty hard ride. The Carretera was not the most difficult section of the trip, but it definitely was challenging over a longer period of time.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-7al3zhAHaCE/UK5IAbQm5SI/AAAAAAAAGiw/vdgJNkvTP9w/s1600-h/P10609024.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1060902" alt="P1060902" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-IfGXvOnp8qg/UK5ILBhvTDI/AAAAAAAAGi4/Rli-7cNQ748/P1060902_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">The bikes unceremoniously dropped for a rest in the middle of a long hill.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Zdyx9-WzeKY/UK5IaRTiv1I/AAAAAAAAGjA/MgkrA2nNatw/s1600-h/P10607704.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1060770" alt="P1060770" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-vz6_b3bbwYs/UK5IcqduwwI/AAAAAAAAGjI/KS_Qcc5-PKM/P1060770_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">The rough roads were hard on Dave’s “franken-rack”. It’s been welded twice and is currently held together with a piece to repair tent poles, zap straps, and duct tape.</p> <p><strong><em>Pristine</em></strong></p> <p>The Carretera Austral traverses a very large wilderness area, but is only a sliver in the enormous untouched area. There is an abundance of wildlife; huemules (deer) and birds are everywhere and the rivers are full of fish.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-i22R3kNq4-Q/UK5IgJtYWQI/AAAAAAAAGjQ/KXHsQSceIoA/s1600-h/P1060825-Stitch4.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1060825 Stitch" alt="P1060825 Stitch" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-_mxNepd5iGM/UK5Ijdr2sKI/AAAAAAAAGjY/8vBQOJS6CuY/P1060825-Stitch_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="137"></a></p> <p align="center">The turquoise waters of the famous Rio Baker joining with the brown glacial water of the Rio Neff.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-k3W9yNkp4DQ/UK5IwY-6rzI/AAAAAAAAGjg/me4_jgcwEAM/s1600-h/P10605544.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="The mighty Futaleufu river, Chile." alt="The mighty Futaleufu river, Chile." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-wFmn6zsl5fs/UK5I20BOw0I/AAAAAAAAGjo/SI7xOC_Do3U/P1060554_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">The mighty Rio Futaleufu near Villa Santa Lucia.</p> <p>The water in the region is incredibly clear and uncontaminated, just like the people. Unaffected yet by, and somewhat naive to, the tourist potential of their beautiful part of the world, the people here are some of the friendliest and genuine we have met.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-sQm9g1g0AIc/UK5JCvE8mxI/AAAAAAAAGjw/s0u7HqVcn_w/s1600-h/P10608614.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1060861" alt="P1060861" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-k89mSG2rMwQ/UK5JGv7WrxI/AAAAAAAAGj4/ymiHwapCwQI/P1060861_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="180" height="240"></a></p> <p align="center">Filling our water bottles directly from another clear stream.</p> <p><strong><em>Absolutely Made for Cycling</em></strong></p> <p>Sometimes it is difficult to find a balance between enough towns to get supplies and enough wilderness to enjoy yourself. Here, it’s perfect. There are towns every 60 – 120km and a whole lot of nothing in between.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-vkOHPdMSinQ/UK5JRqWlvSI/AAAAAAAAGkA/GMpD3y394yg/s1600-h/P10606667.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1060666" alt="P1060666" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-Mq1ExAGIyDc/UK5JaE6JCgI/AAAAAAAAGkI/Ik-q67hEk5I/P1060666_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Stocking up for the days ride in Villa Cerro Castillo.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-ZUd1T5NIbfM/UK5QTIRN5yI/AAAAAAAAGkw/KZyrTuD1bwk/s1600-h/P10608974.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1060897" alt="P1060897" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-4Z0I7FJTKmM/UK5QVsB0s7I/AAAAAAAAGk4/Wz0A5N_GEWU/P1060897_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Cresting yet another beautiful pass near Villa O’Higgins.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-F64x9to-HVc/UK5QamZG6DI/AAAAAAAAGlA/Xh6MeEoTzyA/s1600-h/P10609034.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1060903" alt="P1060903" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-HRlGfhfvNjU/UK5QeLC3XWI/AAAAAAAAGlI/oGrdzfUnB7c/P1060903_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="180" height="240"></a></p> <p align="center">Pretty little campsites line the road. In this one we fished for dinner, warmed ourselves with a fire, and were only passed by a couple cars in the 12 hours we spent here.</p> <p><strong><em>Threatened?</em></strong></p> <p>The region is currently embroiled in controversy over the proposed construction of large dams on seven rivers in the area. But worse, this would mean the construction of the longest transmission line in the world to bring power to Santiago and the mines in the North of Chile.</p> <p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-7-fMO_zhAnQ/UK5QiktYY8I/AAAAAAAAGlQ/0ouL6WE7zYI/s1600-h/P10607914.jpg"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" title="P1060791" alt="P1060791" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-52ET6RGb808/UK5QlrUkPZI/AAAAAAAAGlY/fAaOE8pmMmw/P1060791_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p>The residents are up in arms, and blockaded the region for two months last year. After seeing much more horrible environmental atrocities in many other Latin American areas, we can’t understand why we find ourselves lining up behind this one. Perhaps it’s because the area is so pristine, or perhaps it’s simply because we’ve come to love it and the people in their current state.</p> <p>Whatever it is, we’re definitely not the only ones. Environmentalists and nature lovers worldwide are lining up to protect the area with a well financed and organized campaign called “Patagonia Sin Represas” (Patagonia Without Dams).</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-mcn_LOiJKxE/UK5Qs_yM3_I/AAAAAAAAGlg/C77s0_YD5_E/s1600-h/P10608554.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1060855" alt="P1060855" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-FZwAz_SZUwE/UK5Qw6CBQHI/AAAAAAAAGlo/wK3nYS2TfJU/P1060855_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a> <a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-b0EGbk8a23g/UK5Q39tZFkI/AAAAAAAAGlw/7AZhzau4bz4/s1600-h/P10608174.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1060817" alt="P1060817" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-Y-94-Oo6WKQ/UK5Q97rnldI/AAAAAAAAGl4/92Getxdd8Xk/P1060817_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">The publicity engines are running at full throttle on both sides. “Our beautiful Patagonia. What savage would do this? Hydro Aysen would.” and “The best line of transmission is a good conversation”.</p> <p>Who knows what will happen … only time will tell. Add to this the fact that you can purchase “water rights” in Chile and many international companies already “own” rivers in the region and it’s a complicated issue. As you can probably tell, we’d hate to see the rivers dammed, but we fear that’s the way the chips will fall.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-bldi5vMhZgY/UK5RI1G8luI/AAAAAAAAGmA/cBs-JOZ9-xU/s1600-h/P10609204.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1060920" alt="P1060920" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-XqRM2BbQRBI/UK5RLwJ6bFI/AAAAAAAAGmI/J33_LHKIFlY/P1060920_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Now we rest for an evening in Villa O’Higgins at the end of the Carretera before travelling to Argentina by a boat and hike combo.</p> DJ Braydenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12014657673408410730noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8617115763088595907.post-3150024380628109472012-11-04T17:54:00.001-08:002015-06-28T19:10:20.841-07:00Springtime in Patagonia<p>It’s been a long time since we’ve been in an area which has four seasons. The region we’re in, Patagonia, is famous for adverse weather. So our arrival here is timed with the coming of spring.</p> <p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-nA0qDoFI-jU/UJcbxRZd3OI/AAAAAAAAB3M/hFJfNn4Q8jo/s1600-h/P10604694.jpg"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" title="Springtime in Patagonia, Argentina." alt="Springtime in Patagonia, Argentina." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-RPBjDXMnvHg/UJcbyO0EdNI/AAAAAAAAB3U/JtZURWiyHT0/P1060469_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p>Trees and flowers are blooming and the weather is good. The area is filled with beautiful national parks. Officially they don’t open until November 1st, so we have them pretty much all to ourselves.</p> <a name='more'></a> <p>On leaving Bariloche we continued along beautiful roads past El Bolson, Argentina.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Mi9h6CphiMU/UJcbzYIVfZI/AAAAAAAAB3c/UISf4eOYeAU/s1600-h/P10604534.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="On the way to El Bolson, Argentina." alt="On the way to El Bolson, Argentina." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-40GR4lZx_Tg/UJcbz4TsM5I/AAAAAAAAB3k/VHfNPabcyAI/P1060453_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a> <a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-K1ob4Ibl6xg/UJcb0-WRYGI/AAAAAAAAB3s/q3RmKOBFl0o/s1600-h/P10604564.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Near El Bolson, Argentina." alt="Near El Bolson, Argentina." src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-ACU2GOxjvHA/UJcb1-rvqcI/AAAAAAAAB30/DQq2w_K9Jyg/P1060456_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Riding on Route 40 again. From Bariloche to El Bolson.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-vVnL8idq0gk/UJcb2mkfEQI/AAAAAAAAB38/vP4VnxwiQwE/s1600-h/P10604817.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Crazy lenticular clouds mean lots of wind." alt="Crazy lenticular clouds mean lots of wind." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-_rK6dyRzyZ8/UJcb3b4wMzI/AAAAAAAAB4E/n_cYQkMuyy8/P1060481_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Crazy lenticular clouds are a sign of the strong wind here.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-ac1xzAEqF0I/UJcb48qPQzI/AAAAAAAAB4M/bPbpDmeXAqA/s1600-h/P10604754.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Staying with Jose-Luis at his casa in El Bolson, Argentina." alt="Staying with Jose-Luis at his casa in El Bolson, Argentina." src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-PJHIdObLbm0/UJcb5n547HI/AAAAAAAAB4U/6YMya7K_nVo/P1060475_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Jose Luis, our wonderful Warmshowers host in El Bolson.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-7SWUHFd3w2o/UJcb6jPxl9I/AAAAAAAAB4c/7j4UBbwCVJI/s1600-h/P10604764.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Lago Puelo near El Bolson, Argentina." alt="Lago Puelo near El Bolson, Argentina." src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-BEakKbTtjEY/UJcb7TmdYaI/AAAAAAAAB4k/uGi2lBbHpMA/P1060476_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Lago Puelo in Parque Nacional Lago Puelo, Argentina.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-kpudV-5Pguc/UJcb8ZbEIYI/AAAAAAAAB4s/JOBEC5eqkcA/s1600-h/P10604884.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Looking towards Parque Nacional Los Alerces, Argentina." alt="Looking towards Parque Nacional Los Alerces, Argentina." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-ucTzIYWPds4/UJcb9H2pX4I/AAAAAAAAB40/4VIyvCEDMIc/P1060488_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Near Cholila, Argentina.</p> <p>South of El Bolson, we rode through Parque Nacional Los Alerces, Argentina. The park wasn’t officially open, so again we saved on the (very expensive) entrance fee and barely saw any other tourists during the two days we spent there.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-IAo4dKoeX-s/UJcb-AbzafI/AAAAAAAAB48/FjyuDRuGM58/s1600-h/P10604964.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Flamingoes near Lago Rivadavia in Parque Nacional Los Alerces, Argentina." alt="Flamingoes near Lago Rivadavia in Parque Nacional Los Alerces, Argentina." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-Cg7_jEXxnZs/UJcb-5XtxvI/AAAAAAAAB5E/5QlJyK_yKRo/P1060496_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="180" height="240"></a></p> <p align="center">Flamingoes in the park. They feed on algae and organisms in the mud or shallow water.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-0oUpkTww61k/UJccANIiRsI/AAAAAAAAB5M/nraPlUomWi0/s1600-h/P10605024.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Riding through Parque Nacional Los Alerces, Argentina." alt="Riding through Parque Nacional Los Alerces, Argentina." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-G-MvPDtfp50/UJccBNGHzFI/AAAAAAAAB5U/vpiPElDBQ0A/P1060502_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a> <a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-Xin0hksuU0M/UJccCn-lW9I/AAAAAAAAB5c/qYngmYWmeac/s1600-h/P10605178.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Riding through Parque Nacional Los Alerces, Argentina." alt="Riding through Parque Nacional Los Alerces, Argentina." src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-aJbq8PbksfM/UJccDZDRRqI/AAAAAAAAB5k/z0wRR_tz42w/P1060517_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">What a pleasure to ride through such a beautiful place.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-Enjp0JwA47Y/UJccEjQjiYI/AAAAAAAAB5s/NilWMQBjnLg/s1600-h/P10605114.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Sometimes the roads aren't so bicycle friendly. In Parque Nacional Los Alerces, Argentina." alt="Sometimes the roads aren't so bicycle friendly. In Parque Nacional Los Alerces, Argentina." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-68vX817cLHc/UJccFVeEpEI/AAAAAAAAB50/ZDuXRLY1M_8/P1060511_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="186"></a></p> <p align="center">You may notice lots of photos of dirt roads. Some were in great condition … some weren’t.</p> <p>And then we experienced the other thing that happens during the spring: rain. It rained harder than we’ve seen in a long time and we got really, really wet. Unfortunately this turned a cold we both picked up into bronchitis. It also happens that our tent isn’t waterproof anymore, probably from all the blowing dust we’ve experienced along the way. What a bad time to find out! </p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-WtaUQDd_yTs/UJccGvok4WI/AAAAAAAAB58/pGxyu4muPTk/s1600-h/P10605234.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Soaked in Parque Nacional Los Alerces, Argentina." alt="Soaked in Parque Nacional Los Alerces, Argentina." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-75cxNj1jRro/UJccHhvlaPI/AAAAAAAAB6E/ksXoyVpOTKE/P1060523_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Soaked in Parque Nacional Los Alerces, Argentina.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-JNwDdcigwFU/UJccIvBz93I/AAAAAAAAB6M/V5WhiiFyFZs/s1600-h/P10605228.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px; display: inline" title="Soaked in Parque Nacional Los Alerces, Argentina." alt="Soaked in Parque Nacional Los Alerces, Argentina." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-PTOJiw580A4/UJccJZJHBqI/AAAAAAAAB6U/lcBj0qxuKTs/P1060522_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="180" height="240"></a></p> <p align="center">Lots and lots of rain.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-RWfDMdM0gwg/UJccLymNRfI/AAAAAAAAB6c/L10rk9J0zsY/s1600-h/P10605274.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Having Welsh tea in Trevelin, Argentina." alt="Having Welsh tea in Trevelin, Argentina." src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-kTp2HfmGgaI/UJccMmxsR8I/AAAAAAAAB6k/aKXFUA7bNnQ/P1060527_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Out of the park, drying out with Welsh tea in sunny Trevelin, Argentina.</p> <p>After the park we passed through Trevelin, Argentina. It’s a pretty but odd Welsh settlement snuggled up against the snowy Andes. This was our last stop before heading back to Chile. Afterwards it was only a short day to cross the Andes again to Futaleufu, Chile.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-NzxFszgyuaI/UJccN27AwYI/AAAAAAAAB6s/e0mvS1t6eQU/s1600-h/P10605334.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Riding towards the border from Trevelin, Argentina." alt="Riding towards the border from Trevelin, Argentina." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-NGiuDkXyzsQ/UJccOlHm74I/AAAAAAAAB60/pangOgfXtPw/P1060533_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Riding towards the Chilean border from Trevelin, Argentina.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-0iC-wE2qpco/UJccP4ybkQI/AAAAAAAAB68/6V1TdOZ_wNk/s1600-h/P10605424.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Riding towards Chile with Parque Nacional Los Alerces in the background." alt="Riding towards Chile with Parque Nacional Los Alerces in the background." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-VxrAb8BbMzM/UJccQUMk0GI/AAAAAAAAB7E/PkKo9PVrBj8/P1060542_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="180" height="240"></a></p> <p align="center">Looking back towards Parque Nacional Los Alerces on the way to Chile.</p> <p align="center"></p> <p align="center"></p> <p align="center"></p> <p align="center"></p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-h5ruKc29mfA/UJccSJ33yUI/AAAAAAAAB7M/5TJMMCp7vqQ/s1600-h/P10605454.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Futaleufu!" alt="Futaleufu!" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-9ZjoRisN_fs/UJccTAWOfpI/AAAAAAAAB7U/Krgafr0tFF8/P1060545_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a> <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-uL1Exi3DmI8/UJccUy5DBbI/AAAAAAAAB7c/JvwJ1OGILk8/s1600-h/P10605544.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="The mighty Futaleufu river, Chile." alt="The mighty Futaleufu river, Chile." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-vtW77dD83YA/UJccVnLbltI/AAAAAAAAB7k/YUShpp69wvg/P1060554_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">For our kayaking friends. The Futaleufu is one of the most famous kayaking rivers in the world.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-6h03QWklZXo/UJccXEcG4YI/AAAAAAAAB7s/6RrW07c3Fp0/s1600-h/P10605484.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="A book and a woodstove." alt="A book and a woodstove." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-b9_If4nyUkE/UJccXwYl4II/AAAAAAAAB70/aYVCeekq9t4/P1060548_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="180" height="240"></a></p> <p align="center">But all we did was rest and recover (and try to re-waterproof our tent). We had the woodstove in our room cranked for three nights.</p> <p>From Futaleufu we start riding on the world famous Carretera Austral. Stay tuned for more rain, wind, dirt roads, and beautiful scenery.</p> David Braydenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03168652029329823825noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8617115763088595907.post-66210981566829722212012-10-27T15:17:00.001-07:002015-06-28T19:10:20.931-07:00Three Parks and Seven Lakes<p>On this leg of our trip we crossed from the lake district of Chile to that of Argentina. We rode through three incredible national parks in the two countries and along Argentina’s famous “Seven Lakes Route”. It wasn’t the most direct route, but the best ones rarely are. This is what cycle touring really is about.</p> <p>The road from Pucon, Chile to the border took us through Parque Nacional Villarrica along a steep and difficult, but beautiful, dirt road. </p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-8nYODrz2Iyg/UIxc-6w8omI/AAAAAAAAByc/IW4gl1w9i3s/s1600-h/P10602998.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Cycling through Parque Nacional Villarrica, Chile towards the Argentinian border." alt="Cycling through Parque Nacional Villarrica, Chile towards the Argentinian border." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-B1RBi2BXiHA/UIxc_oV0FgI/AAAAAAAAByk/3gUWzQQzUCI/P1060299_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="180" height="240"></a></p> <a name='more'></a> <p align="center"></p> <p align="center">Jenn climbing on a loose surface.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-RwRRCRlasNQ/UIxdBL_DkII/AAAAAAAABys/z4IFbrjlrnM/s1600-h/P10603124.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Parque Nacional Villarrica, Chile." alt="Parque Nacional Villarrica, Chile." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-9ps1qR6KKtU/UIxdBu-lykI/AAAAAAAABy0/lf7bYzlm9Lc/P1060312_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Near Paso Mamuil Malal.</p> <p>Parque Nacional Villarrica (Chile) meets Parque Nacional Lanin (Argentina) at the border. But we were surprised at the marked difference as we crossed the boundary between the two. The landscape on the Chilean side was lush and green. It was filled with lakes, rivers, and dense trees. And then we passed the border and the landscape suddenly became more arid and dry. The trees were more spread out and the undergrowth thinner.</p> <p>Along with the landscape, there was a marked difference in the border control which showcases some of the differences between the two countries. In Chile everything was very professional, but bureaucratic, slow and confusing. Our documents were scrutinized and all the rules were followed. But when we arrived at the Argentinian border post, we were greeted warmly by officers outside drinking mate (an Argentinian tea drink). Inside the building music was blaring and the officials were busy making fun of the Chinese – Chilean family in front of us because they had given their kids Spanish names instead of Chinese ones. There were no signs, but everyone pointed us in the right direction. At customs the official amused himself for a few minutes by flipping through our passports and asking us about some of the countries we had visited … never bothering to check if we were carrying fruits or vegetables (good thing for us).</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-YgkUxFrYNtk/UIxdC1pT5kI/AAAAAAAABy8/mnIGVvaKm8M/s1600-h/P10603184.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Cycling through Araucania (Monkey Puzzle) trees in Parque Nacional Lanin, Argentina with Volcan Lanin." alt="Cycling through Araucania (Monkey Puzzle) trees in Parque Nacional Lanin, Argentina with Volcan Lanin." src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-cW07UeCkmwE/UIxdDkn317I/AAAAAAAABzE/b8se_TJgqxA/P1060318_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Through the border on the Argentinian side. Volcan Lanin in the background.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-mFUjpFJvsCQ/UIxdEoH5hQI/AAAAAAAABzM/JiKvr32h2Lg/s1600-h/P10603224.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Checking out the ancient and strange Araucania (Monkey Puzzle) trees in Parque Nacional Lanin, Argentina." alt="Checking out the ancient and strange Araucania (Monkey Puzzle) trees in Parque Nacional Lanin, Argentina." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-mbL5tpGQKZo/UIxdFB0EYFI/AAAAAAAABzU/IUbrimY1SOc/P1060322_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="180" height="240"></a></p> <p align="center">Parque Nacional Lanin is famous for Araucania Trees (Monkey Puzzle Trees).</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-4WFIUMMPJBU/UIxdGmlI1gI/AAAAAAAABzc/g1Hps1Jbkbg/s1600-h/P10603304.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Araucania (Monkey Puzzle) tree and Volcan Lanin in Parque Nacional Lanin, Argentina." alt="Araucania (Monkey Puzzle) tree and Volcan Lanin in Parque Nacional Lanin, Argentina." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-d-MoCMIyhX8/UIxdHmuSmoI/AAAAAAAABzk/AxZFMwWl6z0/P1060330_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Araucania and Volcan Lanin.</p> <p>After a brief stop with a wonderful family in the picturesque town of San Martin de Los Andes, we continued along the “Ruta de Siete Lagos” (Seven Lakes Road) to Villa La Angostura and Bariloche. This is a particularly beautiful section of mostly paved road which passes seven large lakes with a backdrop of the Andes. It’s only fitting that we show the route with seven pictures.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-4L-YHH9NLpA/UIxdJE7AK0I/AAAAAAAABzs/Tt5QZPeDe-Y/s1600-h/P10603484.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Pristine lakes on the Ruta de Siete Lagos, Argentina." alt="Pristine lakes on the Ruta de Siete Lagos, Argentina." src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-NkFPxWntPoQ/UIxdKQv0sCI/AAAAAAAABz0/qjcIU20owAI/P1060348_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Lago Machonico.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-J8dYWF66eoc/UIxdLu0nZhI/AAAAAAAABz8/_Ge7sKHdpVg/s1600-h/P10603544.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Beautiful riding on the Ruta de Siete Lagos, Argentina." alt="Beautiful riding on the Ruta de Siete Lagos, Argentina." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-IdlwEP0LHbI/UIxdMLVutBI/AAAAAAAAB0E/qTM4BHgrNbQ/P1060354_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Riding alongside the snowy Andes.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-Fss33YUdTX4/UIxdNwMzTwI/AAAAAAAAB0M/pz6-CYHW-aU/s1600-h/P10603584.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Waterfall in Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi, Argentina." alt="Waterfall in Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi, Argentina." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-On9-gQtr2F8/UIxdOhLS08I/AAAAAAAAB0U/oPTHR7XJLgU/P1060358_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Pretty little roadside waterfall.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-rWLKTcLLg4s/UIxdPqUvqfI/AAAAAAAAB0c/2ZEdn-X7n3A/s1600-h/P10603914.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Lago Villanica on the Ruta de Siete Lagos, Argentina." alt="Lago Villanica on the Ruta de Siete Lagos, Argentina." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-cdXOjh2jmys/UIxdQ4jAu2I/AAAAAAAAB0k/ng3gkHf-oDw/P1060391_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Morning view from our campsite on Lago Villarino.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-SCYCMl0_8H4/UIxdR9BBexI/AAAAAAAAB0s/A0s1PEGtE1I/s1600-h/P10603974.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="In Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi on the Ruta de Siete Lagos, Argentina." alt="In Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi on the Ruta de Siete Lagos, Argentina." src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-ILuMvLqV5ZQ/UIxdSixfHdI/AAAAAAAAB00/fh3hRei2LWI/P1060397_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="180" height="240"></a></p> <p align="center">Crystal clear and freezing cold.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-f7fG-EYfXGI/UIxdToEFk4I/AAAAAAAAB1A/86EgvYyyBds/s1600-h/P10604044.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Lago Espejo in Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi on the Ruta de Siete Lagos, Argentina." alt="Lago Espejo in Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi on the Ruta de Siete Lagos, Argentina." src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-2gIyBgDPY1c/UIxdUkgzD5I/AAAAAAAAB1I/MvBTsBX_0aI/P1060404_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="180" height="240"></a></p> <p align="center">Lago Espejo (Mirror Lake).</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-Vypmg5mCm88/UIxdVsleYqI/AAAAAAAAB1Q/eZuKZYBoY7A/s1600-h/P10604134.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Campspot on Lago Nahuel Huapi, Argentina." alt="Campspot on Lago Nahuel Huapi, Argentina." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-KEsRb3_BSg4/UIxdWfrh-YI/AAAAAAAAB1Y/zoC2b8tgWSA/P1060413_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Camped alongside Lago Nahuel Huapi. Jenn trying to catch dinner and a bottle of wine for a consolation prize.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-zy2LQxI79nw/UIxdXjyiJjI/AAAAAAAAB1g/kim6fr4ZFro/s1600-h/P10604424.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1060442" alt="P1060442" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-sSXeBXEtb4o/UIxdY8-m4AI/AAAAAAAAB1o/eKXzyS4bec4/P1060442_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Checking out Lago Escondido (Hidden Lake) in Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi near Bariloche.</p> <p>And now we pass a few days in Bariloche, Argentina waiting to get Dave’s front rack welded. It is a beautiful lakeside city, surrounded by dramatic mountains and filled with chocolate shops … we don’t mind at all.</p> <p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-QjMmeOag2q4/UIxdZyytU3I/AAAAAAAAB1w/aQcKDLLQ_Ps/s1600-h/P10604284.jpg"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" title="In a chocolate shop in Bariloche, Argentina." alt="In a chocolate shop in Bariloche, Argentina." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-CXogxqlDbpA/UIxdaixcn8I/AAAAAAAAB14/B7yY9ZBbSOY/P1060428_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="180" height="240"></a></p> David Braydenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03168652029329823825noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8617115763088595907.post-78399141715444671292012-10-18T19:17:00.001-07:002015-06-28T19:10:20.962-07:00Superhighways and Superhospitality<p>This leg of the trip took us from Valparaiso on the coast of Chile to Pucon, about 800km South in Chile’s Lake Region.</p> <p>After a couple days of nice riding on a coastal road we met up with Chile’s superhighway. So for 5 days we rode on this:</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-kqR7Hifwlg4/UICrHtjZobI/AAAAAAAABss/SyblULipsBg/s1600-h/P10602794.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1060279" alt="P1060279" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-xPYlg_Flsk0/UICrP9SMCqI/AAAAAAAABs0/BTychXWgLpQ/P1060279_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="left">And showered and camped at these:</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-QfwSmYNqnic/UIC1LDhqcfI/AAAAAAAABvk/uGts3dILi7I/s1600-h/P10602789.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1060278" alt="P1060278" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-CjfDUvNJM5I/UIC1Obgqc_I/AAAAAAAABvs/6BN4ii56lAg/P1060278_thumb3.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="left">Yawn.</p> <a name='more'></a> <p>The scenery was most uninspiring, with a couple of exceptions:</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-rrWVlH5BEOg/UIC1cYHJDII/AAAAAAAABv0/gNYnoWEhFsM/s1600-h/P10602644.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Salto de Laja, Chile." alt="Salto de Laja, Chile." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-ymmQDpViF08/UIC1iBnuQdI/AAAAAAAABv8/wJ8p5y2OFE4/P1060264_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Salto de Laja (Sandstone Falls). Wow!</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-Ss_07Z6iYQ4/UIC2MVbaJUI/AAAAAAAABwE/aZzKwRsDPp0/s1600-h/P10602754.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Comtemplating the Rio Bio Bio in Chile. The Southern end of the Inca Empire." alt="Comtemplating the Rio Bio Bio in Chile. The Southern end of the Inca Empire." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-iuUM8YvWWDQ/UIC2YS9ZRAI/AAAAAAAABwM/SQpxV00nt_w/P1060275_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Crossing the Rio Bio Bio, the Southern limit of the former Inca territory. It’s hard to believe that it took us 5 months to cross.</p> <p>Chileans are famous for their hospitality. And what really made this section enjoyable were some of the folks who helped us out along the way, such as the gas station attendant who said “The boss isn’t going to let you camp here, but if you wait an hour until he goes home I’ll show you a good spot”. Here we introduce three people who put in the effort to make our time special: </p> <p>Meet Kevin from Edmonton. Just as we were getting ready to leave one of the above pictured gas stations we ran into him in the parking lot. He was kind enough to invite us to stay at his apartment in Temuco and treat us to dinner. What a nice guy!</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-znwRg_0S9Lc/UIC2sPT61FI/AAAAAAAABwU/WmgbRf1jUl4/s1600-h/P10602774.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1060277" alt="P1060277" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-eTZ6vDpgRGs/UIC2uBSo2FI/AAAAAAAABwc/eMW_s6SF-v0/P1060277_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Having a beer in Temuco, later to be met by our host Kevin.</p> <p>Secondly, meet Javier, our energetic Warmshowers host In Pucon. He made us feel right at home. For two days we ate, climbed, slacklined, and talked about cycling. </p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-nWXhxMnZsKc/UIC3Oynfb-I/AAAAAAAABwk/XdXuWqYjDoE/s1600-h/P10602914.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1060291" alt="P1060291" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-WAuLy5T0_Eg/UIC3U7uQLMI/AAAAAAAABws/p9n4J7takbE/P1060291_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Javier showing us how it’s done on the slackline. Lago Villarica in the background.</p> <p>And meet Juan, the owner of the bicycle shop in Pucon. He invited us to use the space and tools in his shop to repair our bikes and helped us out when we needed it. He even bought a couple of sopapillas (a local specialty) for us to try.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-syuW4LlKoGA/UIC3neMSNrI/AAAAAAAABw0/icDIrWJ908I/s1600-h/P10602868.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1060286" alt="P1060286" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-gB1n84meu7M/UIC3q0tyLyI/AAAAAAAABw8/dhsPnudDjRM/P1060286_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Putting Dave’s bottom bracket back together with Juan in his shop.</p> <p>We are now entering the lake region of Chile and Argentina. This is an especially beautiful area which we were dreaming about the entire way along the superhighway. </p> <p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-GzsYXUWWn8g/UIC4EO3hYxI/AAAAAAAABxE/1Cw3uyBJcgM/s1600-h/P10602858.jpg"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" title="P1060285" alt="P1060285" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/--HNESxEUtQ0/UIC4KZsyMaI/AAAAAAAABxM/b2rL_5GBmCY/P1060285_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p>Stay tuned for some wonderful scenery! David Braydenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03168652029329823825noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8617115763088595907.post-2025857456429690722012-10-05T18:54:00.001-07:002015-06-28T19:10:20.811-07:00Wine, Mountains, and Art<p>In our last section we passed through three different and distinct regions. The cycling wasn’t so hard and the views were gorgeous. The culture here almost has us feeling sophisticated!</p> <p><strong><em>Region 1: Wine</em></strong></p> <p>Ruta 40 deposited us in Mendoza, Argentina. A pretty city with lots of green space and bicycle friendly streets …</p> <p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-K9vPF5Z4Z68/UG-NYuq8qBI/AAAAAAAABmQ/Ke-R0jbM7Wo/s1600-h/P1060019%25255B11%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" title="General San Martin park, Mendoza." alt="General San Martin park, Mendoza." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-3eFgcPk9io0/UG-NZg-VXDI/AAAAAAAABmY/3FnrKX2pqMo/P1060019_thumb%25255B3%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="180" height="240"></a></p> <p>… but most tourists come here to sample the famous Malbec wine and Argentinian meat. Mendoza is the winemaking capital of Argentina with around 1500 wineries exporting the famous Malbec all over the world. How could we not take a short siesta to enjoy the wine and food for which this area is known?</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-hMWBATUUg5A/UG-Nb7GkAJI/AAAAAAAABmg/XxYqhoRtnkw/s1600-h/P1060013%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Mr. Meat!" alt="Mr. Meat!" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-hSWIyyY765w/UG-Nc2W99lI/AAAAAAAABmo/Wal-BbbYpC4/P1060013_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <a name='more'></a> <p align="center"></p> <p align="center">Enjoying our first real Argentinian asado (barbecue) at the hostel courtesy of this guy, “Mr Meat”. Here he shows a friend his “asado shirt”.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Qynx-xwwp-c/UG-NfsBwFBI/AAAAAAAABmw/R9FUrSbTye0/s1600-h/P1060075%25255B8%25255D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px; display: inline" title="Pizza and wine feast." alt="Pizza and wine feast." src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-fXGhXC5CkAM/UG-NgjIYiuI/AAAAAAAABm4/8Wf0MA7Qce4/P1060075_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Another great meal of homemade pizzas!</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-AEtwhLN-3kU/UG-Ni-_xWVI/AAAAAAAABnA/wzBiGrtuTFo/s1600-h/P1060032%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Mmm giant wine!" alt="Mmm giant wine!" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-BUFQBOQjrYc/UG-Nj9I9gMI/AAAAAAAABnI/bfeOYkpB4K8/P1060032_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a> <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-79CcJJb4mKA/UG-NmEsCGpI/AAAAAAAABnQ/dp6pihENAgs/s1600-h/P1060066%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Inside the giant wine tank." alt="Inside the giant wine tank." src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-tri1XiMczMw/UG-NnKm6vfI/AAAAAAAABnY/WCTKiZFgXSM/P1060066_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">On a tour of wineries in Maipu. Jenn with two new friends inside a tank for aging wine!</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-BRA19Dm7dk0/UG-NpijvrLI/AAAAAAAABng/gA12lYF-y9Q/s1600-h/P1060072%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Chugachugachuga wine train!" alt="Chugachugachuga wine train!" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-8ZL7Ze2qCNA/UG-NqvUJHHI/AAAAAAAABno/-bdaRIuFM4U/P1060072_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="180" height="240"></a></p> <p align="center">We had to find our own way back to Mendoza after the train stopped running early this day.</p> <p>One of the wonderful things about travelling by bicycle is the special treatment you sometimes receive. We arrived late in the afternoon at one winery for a tasting. Not wanting to turn us away, they opened four bottles of wine for us to try. Several hours later, after lots of wine, a personal tour of the cellar, and good conversation, they gave us the rest of two of the bottles we had opened including a bottle of their reserve Malbec (the best wine they make). They even would have given us the other two if we could have carried them and had access to a fridge! (Unfortunately our campsite that night turned out to be closed, so we had to enjoy one of the better bottles of wine of our lives while camped in the town park.)</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-7OlG6ePsgvY/UG-NsyT7OoI/AAAAAAAABnw/Kze-1_7SEhY/s1600-h/P1060094%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Our loot from Northon's." alt="Our loot from Northon's." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-Ef80pBVm-Cw/UG-Nt3OkMdI/AAAAAAAABn4/HSBF3mufwwU/P1060094_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Outside of our new favourite winery, Norton. Run like you stole something!</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-U8UpgECl_Fw/UG-NxWdq7nI/AAAAAAAABoA/jwEkuSVuvSQ/s1600-h/P1060087%25255B7%25255D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px; display: inline" title="Grapevines and the Andes." alt="Grapevines and the Andes." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/--117otPVB1c/UG-NyHkjXZI/AAAAAAAABoI/qVu_-NMyFnA/P1060087_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Lush valleys alongside the Andes.</p> <p><em><strong>Region 2: Mountains</strong></em></p> <p>Between Mendoza and Chile the road took us through Uspallata Pass. It’s home to the highest mountain outside of Asia and was the set of Brad Pitt’s hit film Seven Years in Tibet.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-HC2rFIWo7vo/UG-N1HyZZzI/AAAAAAAABoQ/rcWs-28zCwA/s1600-h/P1060112%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Wine, cheese, salami and olives; luxeries when wild camping." alt="Wine, cheese, salami and olives; luxeries when wild camping." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-QslPHAH9v1U/UG-N2AMwPbI/AAAAAAAABoY/LXkNFbKhnDY/P1060112_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Enjoying the last bottle of our Norton loot with cheese, olives, and salami at our campsite near Uspallata. Wild camping never has been so classy.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-5Tb6S8Sk79c/UG-N6ZKMnDI/AAAAAAAABog/qyAXv2FVsTA/s1600-h/P1060126%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Riding in to the Andes." alt="Riding in to the Andes." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-jR7w6QZVgNc/UG-N7jdPjoI/AAAAAAAABoo/em3y0R7ajQo/P1060126_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Riding towards higher and higher mountains and the Chilean border.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-rPzDGyjS7dM/UG-N_q8qAgI/AAAAAAAABow/3Upx800OUWk/s1600-h/P1060148%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Puente de los Incas." alt="Puente de los Incas." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-KnWdqc5r2u8/UG-OBMxz80I/AAAAAAAABo4/EjL-TYhHqXI/P1060148_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Puente del los Incas is an incredible, natural bridge over the Rio Mendoza. The building is the ruins of an old hot spring complex.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-eqV2WaLqCJI/UG-OElXI7QI/AAAAAAAABpA/1z7LqS0J5vM/s1600-h/P1060117%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Aconcagua National Park." alt="Aconcagua National Park." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-oFRmVdzJMgY/UG-OF3J99TI/AAAAAAAABpI/vUPPyECr8Ws/P1060117_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a> <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-GUZl33a50kg/UG-OM3p3jwI/AAAAAAAABpQ/SdPJ33sLvxY/s1600-h/P1060152%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Aconcagua mountain." alt="Aconcagua mountain." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-8V1V2LLHVQQ/UG-OO39AUaI/AAAAAAAABpY/elzp_Qie-s4/P1060152_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Cerro Aconcagua is the highest peak outside of Asia at 6962m. Us with the famous (infamous?) South Face.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-6MxpxnXKi_o/UG-OTk6KxnI/AAAAAAAABpg/i1U0s_tqlw0/s1600-h/P1060163%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Welcome to Chile!" alt="Welcome to Chile!" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-wW3_OKOV2nQ/UG-OW0JEfDI/AAAAAAAABpo/sa1ORMtRjTA/P1060163_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Chile!</p> <p><em><strong>Region 3: Art</strong></em></p> <p>After the pass into Chile it was down, down, down to the coast and the city of Valparaiso. Chile’s cultural capital is filled with street art on steep streets.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-VGIsxEIUZPg/UG-OcklC1bI/AAAAAAAABpw/3kJXcRka8U0/s1600-h/P1060176%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Looking across the bay from Vina del Mar to Valparaiso." alt="Looking across the bay from Vina del Mar to Valparaiso." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-ph_tlqDNX9U/UG-Oe2HRTgI/AAAAAAAABp4/NbMjE9NP4ac/P1060176_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="179"></a> <a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-C1lBUcJQpSc/UG-Oknff74I/AAAAAAAABqA/FnD0ubtYSpI/s1600-h/P1060177%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Pushing the bike uphill in Valparaiso." alt="Pushing the bike uphill in Valparaiso." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-7H04Udc0SFM/UG-OnD21SKI/AAAAAAAABqI/rZ91t-Z3yJw/P1060177_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="177"></a></p> <p align="center">Welcome to Valparaiso!</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-gFVY_D1HvsM/UG-Oshz8PHI/AAAAAAAABqQ/O9tdEWbtv2I/s1600-h/P1060203%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Street art in Valparaiso." alt="Street art in Valparaiso." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-yp-ASVfDbE8/UG-OvQ0AK1I/AAAAAAAABqY/tBXDDvwyedU/P1060203_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a> <a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-nVUZezfcV64/UG-OzJirmDI/AAAAAAAABqg/5njG-sGb19g/s1600-h/P1060213%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Street art in Valparaiso." alt="Street art in Valparaiso." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-LDRlQdqbboU/UG-O0nx5EsI/AAAAAAAABqo/G3NvCA2DXQA/P1060213_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-mrwzzSYUTjg/UG-O2u7JqkI/AAAAAAAABqw/CO2ZgIQfUo8/s1600-h/P1060219%25255B6%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Street art in Valparaiso." alt="Street art in Valparaiso." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-ebEecfBOnjM/UG-O3zJFxGI/AAAAAAAABq4/Pa81d6VTVDM/P1060219_thumb%25255B3%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Some of our favourite murals.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-uJ8Imbe9xAU/UG-O7X55PdI/AAAAAAAABrA/7S4-KrSLecY/s1600-h/P1060208%25255B8%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Street art in Valparaiso, President Salvador Allende." alt="Street art in Valparaiso, President Salvador Allende." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-1vbW5U9ljOQ/UG-O8n8r5QI/AAAAAAAABrI/jKhfb5yiU0M/P1060208_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="180" height="240"></a></p> <p align="center">Chile’s former president Salvador Allende (toppled and executed by the military in a coup) …</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-AfeZXxYpmzA/UG-PBjqm-WI/AAAAAAAABrQ/QCXfLoBxmIg/s1600-h/P1060209%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Street art in Valparaiso." alt="Street art in Valparaiso." src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-HFdtN9etw-U/UG-PG_RvXBI/AAAAAAAABrY/bHrJUn-CaH8/P1060209_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">… and a reminder never to forget.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-4_DQluF-g3c/UG-PQSqrreI/AAAAAAAABrg/dpaLQ9uEoNY/s1600-h/P1060243%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" title="P1060243" alt="P1060243" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-CWFg32028Ro/UG-PXBooWfI/AAAAAAAABro/lapSfbj4jWM/P1060243_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center"></p> <p align="center">Another special treatment moment camped on the beach in front of Pablo Neruda’s house (now a museum) in Isla Negra. <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pablo_Neruda" target="_blank">Pablo Neruda</a> was a nobel prize winning author, but to Chileans is simply known as “The Poet” (<a href="http://atomicdarinka.tumblr.com/image/1476861246" target="_blank">our favourite poem</a>, <a href="http://ruedatropical.com/2009/03/oda-a-la-bicicleta-pablo-neruda/" target="_blank">and translated</a>).</p> <p align="left">From here we make our way South in Chile towards the Chilean and Argentinian Lake Regions. Wish us tailwinds!</p> David Braydenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03168652029329823825noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8617115763088595907.post-87875105344864101932012-09-23T18:41:00.001-07:002015-06-28T19:10:20.985-07:00Stories of the Open Road<p>Ruta 40 stretches almost 5000km from the Bolivian border to Tierra del Fuego. It’s long, sparesly populated, and traverses some beautiful scenery; Argentina’s version of Route 66. In our last leg we followed Ruta 40 for 1200km from Cafayate to Mendoza.</p> <p>To break up the desert scenery there are a number of shrines along the roadside. They are spaced at regular intervals have tables and flat spaces … perfect campspots!</p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-L6V-uOD9eA0/UF-tWL-kUkI/AAAAAAAABh4/M9VlOAtpjpM/s1600-h/P1050954%25255B8%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" title="Difunta Correa on the way to Cuesta Miranda." alt="Difunta Correa on the way to Cuesta Miranda." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-EuKZY2YVNbA/UF-taOdVY1I/AAAAAAAABiA/vmgfHZ8lW60/P1050954_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p>The shrines are dedicated to local Argentine heroes. Pictures from our journey are broken up by two of our favourite stories.</p> <a name='more'></a><p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/--U9ibdrw6zc/UF-tezu9A5I/AAAAAAAABiI/0t2mL8A4JME/s1600-h/P1050932%25255B7%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Quilmes Ruins, Tucuman." alt="Quilmes Ruins, Tucuman." src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-E-Bh2YUeQNE/UF-tiqOALpI/AAAAAAAABiQ/es0Xpml3TKQ/P1050932_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">At the Pre-Incan Quilmes ruins on our first day on Ruta 40.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-NDQhYfzr0FY/UF-tnxlQlFI/AAAAAAAABiY/DrNdZXBBaI8/s1600-h/P1050952%25255B7%25255D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px; display: inline" title="Not so far now!" alt="Not so far now!" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-7OlH-X7MSE0/UF-tqDvPJfI/AAAAAAAABig/IwbqZzd3MZA/P1050952_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Almost there …</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-qWGUemIk7Ss/UF-tuGRnMrI/AAAAAAAABio/GQlcxGa93aQ/s1600-h/P1050972%25255B7%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Wild rock formations in La Rioja." alt="Wild rock formations in La Rioja." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-4T9KbzqwCUY/UF-twcnkR1I/AAAAAAAABiw/HX_eGpUIUsw/P1050972_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">The road followed valleys past many crazy rock formations.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-Vo4wjmjNN9g/UF-t1e40cjI/AAAAAAAABi4/bMogCBerblc/s1600-h/P1050965%25255B7%25255D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px; display: inline" title="Looking back into the valley from Cuesta de Miranda." alt="Looking back into the valley from Cuesta de Miranda." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-tqrSigsbyu0/UF-t9DxTl4I/AAAAAAAABjA/k5ltuf9MEiE/P1050965_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Looking back at the dirt road through Cuesta de Miranda (Miranda’s Pass) near Chilecito.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-QI7AJVkHaRM/UF-uIcQn6FI/AAAAAAAABjI/RhgWO_PpUdY/s1600-h/P1050971%25255B7%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Intense roads up Cuesta de Miranda." alt="Intense roads up Cuesta de Miranda." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-G_tfcXhvqVI/UF-uMB1RrNI/AAAAAAAABjQ/xujhIt_hm4Y/P1050971_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Jenn riding on the beautiful dirt road.</p> <p><strong><em>Difunta Correa</em></strong></p> <p><em>When Maria Antonia Deolinda Correa’s husband was recruited by the army in 1850 she was devastated. Desperate, she took her newborn baby and followed the army into the desert. Short on food and water she eventually collapsed of thirst. Several days later shepherds found her body with baby still alive suckling milk from her breast. </em></p> <p><em>The shepherds buried her body and raised the baby. Years later another shepherd who had lost his cattle in a storm and found her tomb while looking for them. He prayed for the cattle to be saved, and miraculously found them grouped on a hill.</em></p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-0Bhv5D6-Nn8/UF-uTVVnK6I/AAAAAAAABjY/rLiB8VHw0yw/s1600-h/P1050939%25255B12%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" title="Shrine for some people who died of dehydration that are all over Argentina." alt="Shrine for some people who died of dehydration that are all over Argentina." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-Lyj912qRBb8/UF-uWjEJOXI/AAAAAAAABjg/hDcMm5dlTWo/P1050939_thumb%25255B3%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p><em>Now people have created shrines where they leave full bottles of water and construct small houses. They ask Difunta Correa for miracles or help with things in their own lives.</em></p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-EwdDsaiw8gU/UF-ucKY01lI/AAAAAAAABjs/6oU3IeG3HJc/s1600-h/P1050981%25255B7%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Parrots in the trees!" alt="Parrots in the trees!" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Wf7Fpj-JmOE/UF-uif6h1UI/AAAAAAAABj0/GEVfvf3V_SI/P1050981_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">What the heck is that noise? Wild parrots on the roadside.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-vBeHFxRLFQE/UF-upPNJfnI/AAAAAAAABj8/wLpiXzcuVXs/s1600-h/P1050937%25255B7%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="What street is this? Nobody knows." alt="What street is this? Nobody knows." src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-OVkNCfDFOLs/UF-urR11UmI/AAAAAAAABkE/TmUAqPs4pe0/P1050937_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Good thing we have our GPS …</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-TEAKJg24Ing/UF-uvd4S_xI/AAAAAAAABkM/Ztwr7aR3mXQ/s1600-h/P1050950%25255B7%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Hostel puppy #2!" alt="Hostel puppy #2!" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-VJ83zHHdZ64/UF-uzJcwpuI/AAAAAAAABkU/q59DfwJYIbs/P1050950_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="180" height="240"></a></p> <p align="center">Possibly the cutest puppy ever, at our hostel in Chilecito … until it started chewing on our tent.</p> <p><strong><em>Gauchito Gil</em></strong></p> <p><em>After being recruited for two different civil wars in the late 1800’s, Antonio “Gauchito” Gil was tired of fighting and deserted the army. As an outlaw he became somewhat of a Robin Hood. He would steal from the rich and protect the poor. Eventually the police caught him, hung him in a tree by his feet, and tortured him. </em> <p><em>To one of the policemen Gil said “Your son is very ill. If you pray and beg me to save your child, I promise you that he will live. If not, he will die". Then the policeman slit his throat.</em> <p><em>Upon returning to his village, the policeman discovered that his son was very sick. He prayed to Gauchito Gil to save his son, and miraculously his son recovered. So Gauchito Gil saved his killer’s son.</em> <p><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-r3FGHIlcjd4/UF-vKI-jWKI/AAAAAAAABkc/kZLxMtb3rYk/s1600-h/P1050978%25255B8%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" title="Gauchito Gil shrine on route 40." alt="Gauchito Gil shrine on route 40." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-_FV-TvOnuNw/UF-vQKf01HI/AAAAAAAABkk/NShsOnfmE3k/P1050978_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a> <p align="left"><em>Today people hang red rags in trees to celebrate Gauchito Gil and ask for their own miracles.</em></p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-GWlHt9WdBo4/UF-vV9WLinI/AAAAAAAABks/sYHvk-v8AD8/s1600-h/P1050975%25255B10%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="River crossings on Route 40." alt="River crossings on Route 40." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-ewfkMAnFuoY/UF-vampXLeI/AAAAAAAABk0/iIRsYK2DI34/P1050975_thumb%25255B3%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Ruta 40 had hundreds of drainages across the road. Fortunately only a few were flooded.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-YUhAEJa1gY0/UF-vtxNUiII/AAAAAAAABk8/PSTE002_p3A/s1600-h/P1050938%25255B13%25255D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px; display: inline" title="Awesome campspot at one of Argentina's numerous shrines." alt="Awesome campspot at one of Argentina's numerous shrines." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-MY865RfXTb4/UF-vyFrzs-I/AAAAAAAABlE/SLbYCZzDCxs/P1050938_thumb%25255B4%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Camping at a Difunta Correa shrine with fellow cyclist Markus.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-DND2bn72kE4/UF-v6T0ZdXI/AAAAAAAABlM/bBmzBPptJvU/s1600-h/P1050988%25255B13%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Vicious cactus in our wild campspot outside Jachal." alt="Vicious cactus in our wild campspot outside Jachal." src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-CJPNovUACrs/UF-v9Plmv7I/AAAAAAAABlU/BIw8Emhg7rE/P1050988_thumb%25255B4%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">There were prickly things everywhere along the route. We don’t know what these are really called, but we refer to them as “Argentinian Death Cacti”.</p> <p>Hope you enjoyed the pictures and the stories. From here we cross the Andes from Mendoza to Chile and continue down the coast towards Patagonia.</p> David Braydenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03168652029329823825noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8617115763088595907.post-41394720319575917642012-09-15T20:02:00.001-07:002015-06-28T19:10:20.886-07:00The 3 R’s<p>Rest, Relaxation and Recuperation</p> <p>At the time we may not have realized it because we were so awe-struck by the natural beauty, but Bolivia really worked us. The food/water, climate and harsh conditions took a huge toll on us physically. By the end of the Lagunas region we were really hurting for some of the creature comforts we take for granted at home (like central heating, potable water and fresh produce). We were both suffering from chronic digestive tract problems and were excited to reach Argentina where reportedly all tap water (unless otherwise noted) is drinkable, elevations are lower and temperatures warmer.</p> <p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-8gBxiHCLM7g/UFU5YC4H3xI/AAAAAAAAA0w/ZW_gFU4o3-c/s1600-h/P1050835%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" title="Welcome to Chile!" alt="Welcome to Chile!" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-ydJOth0hfAs/UFU5ZlbcmbI/AAAAAAAAA04/-NVFAkuXc6Y/P1050835_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Before reaching Argentina we would have to pass through the Northeastern corner of Chile, which is so remote we never officially entered or exited the country.</p><a name='more'></a> <p>The map we acquired said it was 80km from the Bolivian border with Chile to the first town in Argentina, Susques. Unfortunately for us, this map was horribly incorrect and it was more like 240km.</p> <p><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-UpnI67SPixQ/UFU5ddsgPKI/AAAAAAAAA1A/twfawPcGR4M/s1600-h/P1050841%252520Stitch%25255B7%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" title="Two lakes in Chile, side by side, but such different colours." alt="Two lakes in Chile, side by side, but such different colours." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-8Kuq28_vtvM/UFU5d1sCIQI/AAAAAAAAA1I/tsfCBBBrAPs/P1050841%252520Stitch_thumb%25255B4%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="500" height="112"></a></p> <p align="center">Fortunately for us, we were carrying enough food and water and the scenery was still spectacular.</p> <p align="left"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-kqecglUyt80/UFU5gZgYzeI/AAAAAAAAA1Q/7QGUGNWkOvo/s1600-h/P1050848%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" title="Campsite in a Chilean viewpoint." alt="Campsite in a Chilean viewpoint." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-l1ZYOtZxKpA/UFU5ipejVoI/AAAAAAAAA1Y/BTUmvp21IiQ/P1050848_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Also the roads were all paved now, and there were perfect lookouts like this one for camping out of the wind.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-CY1aFzTi40c/UFVAMncw3gI/AAAAAAAAA4Q/YcoRkau21OQ/s1600-h/P10508494.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Welcome to Argentina!" alt="Welcome to Argentina!" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-m4B4NsBG8VY/UFVANpnYGsI/AAAAAAAAA4Y/SJnU5Zh71Z0/P1050849_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Once at the border it was easy passage into Argentina (we were worried because we were carrying lots of fruit after having spent the night illegally in Chile).</p> <p align="left">The only thing at the border was a gas station, but it was super modern compared to anything we’d seen in weeks. We passed a couple hours eating paninis, drinking REAL coffee and using the free WiFi. We made the final push to Susques and arrived as the sun set over a beautiful red valley. Our rest day was extended to two here due to lingering stomach problems. We finally set out again and completed our last pass of the trip over 4000m.</p> <p align="left"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-IzuXr-k946s/UFVARL66AyI/AAAAAAAAA4g/abk3G2A6yyg/s1600-h/P10508564.jpg"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" title="Escape from the Andes to Quebrada Humahuaca." alt="Escape from the Andes to Quebrada Humahuaca." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-4HdtZor1Dqg/UFVAR9vHWSI/AAAAAAAAA4o/dfTuIzZ84Ks/P1050856_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">The descent into the famous Quebrada Humahuaca.</p> <p align="left">We reached Jujuy and there we began to learn just how seriously Argentinians take their siesta (what do you mean the restaurants don’t open until 9pm?). We also learned of hot springs in the area and spent another rest day soaking our tired muscles.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-9oeXJfxiZVY/UFVAVPTRq0I/AAAAAAAAA4w/s6FLqzns1cc/s1600-h/P10508604.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Riding on "mini" route 9." alt="Riding on "mini" route 9." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-PbwTZ-MezMg/UFVAZW_eXVI/AAAAAAAAA44/nL5mc6eXNJ8/P1050860_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">One of our favourite roads of the trip. “Mini” Route 9 winds its way from Jujuy to Salta at a mere 4m wide past beautiful forest and lakes.</p> <p align="left">In Salta our stomachs were finally feeling better, so we used the opportunity to feast.</p> <p align="left"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-uKKTJeH9EKo/UFVAbrz8lwI/AAAAAAAAA5A/tR2yFaReY3Q/s1600-h/P10508704.jpg"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" title="Salta meat feast." alt="Salta meat feast." src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-b_fgwfSM1Z8/UFVAcaQvi_I/AAAAAAAAA5I/aXSdKEFMsq4/P1050870_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">When is Rome… Enjoying a meaty feast prepared over fire.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-STHKf9YLGkE/UFVAd9nMZvI/AAAAAAAAA5Q/UjXMKwN3Dpc/s1600-h/P10508734.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Banana bread!" alt="Banana bread!" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-JTty_C91Gj0/UFVAencow4I/AAAAAAAAA5Y/yXs75xSmYwI/P1050873_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="180" height="240"></a> <a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-9fsE9GGS2yk/UFVAhlZjHjI/AAAAAAAAA5g/0tORgH_uNBI/s1600-h/P10508744.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Breakfast in Salta." alt="Breakfast in Salta." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-qZtR9pnu7JA/UFVAib3kRXI/AAAAAAAAA5o/9yt4KuQOtX4/P1050874_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="180" height="240"></a></p> <p align="center">Banana bread prepared in our “outback oven” and a full breakfast with eggs (unlike Argentinians who only eat bread with condiments and coffee).</p> <p align="left">From Salta it was only two days to our next destination, the famous wine region of Cafayate. Again we followed a stunning canyon, full of amazing natural features.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-K-Q8sB6BfwQ/UFVAkVSxmyI/AAAAAAAAA5w/sXP_e3WgJ48/s1600-h/P10508904.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Riding along the Quebrada de las Conchas." alt="Riding along the Quebrada de las Conchas." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-0NgjoeAx1-E/UFVAlVulcpI/AAAAAAAAA54/y_Dzdrx6phg/P1050890_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a> <a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-3NN0L-BydL0/UFVApoYUIwI/AAAAAAAAA6A/SyUkdRLN_Iw/s1600-h/P10508834.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Inside The Devel's Throat, Quebrada de las Conchas, Salta." alt="Inside The Devel's Throat, Quebrada de las Conchas, Salta." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-fzuwYChBDJE/UFVAqf75AGI/AAAAAAAAA6I/zqLludBR1Lo/P1050883_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Jenn riding in the beautiful terrain and the Devil’s Throat, an amazing feature carved by water.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-wbhCMD54JiI/UFVArgo5CiI/AAAAAAAAA6Q/UnUVCQ6AbZ8/s1600-h/P10508844.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Looking out from The Amphitheatre at the bikes, Quebrada de las Conchas, Salta." alt="Looking out from The Amphitheatre at the bikes, Quebrada de las Conchas, Salta." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-n8J85v3eGTo/UFVAsVstWCI/AAAAAAAAA6Y/d-vRtuiT3JM/P1050884_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="180" height="240"></a> <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-ivil5Ru3QhM/UFVAwtyyavI/AAAAAAAAA6g/cXoKId3S1J4/s1600-h/P10508894.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="The Toad, Quebrada de las Conchas, Salta." alt="The Toad, Quebrada de las Conchas, Salta." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-9q3r5X8Fr8o/UFVAx3AWQTI/AAAAAAAAA6o/jh7BjdNNbgw/P1050889_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="180" height="240"></a></p> <p align="center">View back to our bikes and the valley from inside the amphitheatre and “The Toad”.</p> <p align="left">In Cafayate, we really got our rest on. We spent two days visiting wineries and cheese farms for tastings, eating world famous empanadas and enjoying the warm weather. The climate is amazing and perfect for grapes, with a whopping 340 days a year of sunshine.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-ZVtk5b4Oyk8/UFVA0chWm2I/AAAAAAAAA6w/NtQIJj97l84/s1600-h/P10509044.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Beautiful country roads in Cafayate." alt="Beautiful country roads in Cafayate." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-pskBuLtXn9M/UFVA4Q_0XvI/AAAAAAAAA64/yg4Q7cGRj6g/P1050904_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a> <a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-uo1H9k6Tb5E/UFVA7-eu3TI/AAAAAAAAA7A/hlIM800hqG4/s1600-h/P10509064.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="The goats at Cabras de Cafayate goat cheese farm." alt="The goats at Cabras de Cafayate goat cheese farm." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-BTSbkwrWdQo/UFVA-YGpK7I/AAAAAAAAA7I/jcIlj_WK1Ps/P1050906_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="181"></a></p> <p align="center">Country roads on our way to a goat cheese farm and the Swiss goats used to make the delicious creations.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-M24RGzGXeqs/UFVBA7ByFAI/AAAAAAAAA7Q/JSWhe6FoTuk/s1600-h/P10509024.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Leaving Nanni with our wine." alt="Leaving Nanni with our wine." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-QNQbXh_LsHo/UFVBCg90keI/AAAAAAAAA7Y/0V4jix-MPgM/P1050902_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="180" height="240"></a> </p> <p align="center">Bikes are the best transportation for numerous wine tastings in a day, also a normal sized wine bottle fits perfectly in the water bottle cage.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Sc3MR2_t6Jc/UFVBEjKK2SI/AAAAAAAAA7g/MNGPx-gIgcs/s1600-h/P10509164.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Fantasizing buying this 3L bottle of wine after a delicious tasting at El Estecto winery, Cafayate." alt="Fantasizing buying this 3L bottle of wine after a delicious tasting at El Estecto winery, Cafayate." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-1JfKYS9S2E4/UFVBFRHuFLI/AAAAAAAAA7o/Hu1_zeLrACg/P1050916_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Unfortunately this 3L bottle was a little too big for us to carry away. </p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-974vzGSTRO0/UFVBHnAOG0I/AAAAAAAAA7w/_bA8_E7zhJQ/s1600-h/P10509094.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Meat and cheese feast in the plaza in Cafayate." alt="Meat and cheese feast in the plaza in Cafayate." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-c5378g6xWSw/UFVBI_FzOqI/AAAAAAAAA74/9wl9hzebZgw/P1050909_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="180" height="240"></a></p> <p align="center">Doesn’t get much better than artisanal cheeses and salami for a picnic in the park.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-98PXHzdFsig/UFVBOFspIAI/AAAAAAAAA8A/zUOCA5MysKA/s1600-h/P10509034.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Microbrew and Lays in the park, waiting for siesta to end so we can buy dinner groceries." alt="Microbrew and Lays in the park, waiting for siesta to end so we can buy dinner groceries." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-Z1lklPaKoBw/UFVBPOeVVZI/AAAAAAAAA8I/4kAn24EhnDg/P1050903_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">A little less glamorous meal in the park, microbrew beer and chips, while we wait for siesta to end so we can buy groceries for dinner.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-goAXkzikYms/UFVBTprc9yI/AAAAAAAAA8Q/bw87D0UpOSU/s1600-h/P10509184.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Bare grapevines after the winter." alt="Bare grapevines after the winter." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-UVZQWRJ4MEI/UFVBUr6QMWI/AAAAAAAAA8Y/CW_oxa5zZrU/P1050918_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p>All in all we are now feeling rested and ready to take on the challenges of rural Route 40, South to our next big destination of Mendoza, another wine town.</p> Jennifer Braydenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08516145994906317592noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8617115763088595907.post-43738267186221891582012-09-02T13:42:00.001-07:002015-06-28T19:10:20.889-07:00The Climax<p>South America is home to some of the worlds most awe-inspiring places. It’s also home to some of the worlds hardest bicycle riding. We feel that both of these things came to a peak in our journey through the famous Lagunas region of Southwestern Bolivia.</p> <p>This part of Bolivia is famous for its harsh beauty. The whole area is located between 4000m and 5000m above sea level. Coloured lagoons stand out against the bleak landscape to make incredible scenes. We repeatedly found ourselves rounding a corner to exclaim: “Wow, look at that! Are you kidding me?”</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-uT2tXZLnpIc/UEPEBGnrRTI/AAAAAAAAFdU/q80lYrIR6Ck/s1600-h/P10507048.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Descending to Laguna Colorada, Southwestern Bolivia." alt="Descending to Laguna Colorada, Southwestern Bolivia." src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-BmUQM2Ka1VU/UEPEBkgQbMI/AAAAAAAAFdc/fP9X42OqhNE/P1050704_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a> <a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-zr9eN98D38w/UEPEC3nMX_I/AAAAAAAAFdk/LOkb5HMmhsE/s1600-h/P10507354.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Flamingoes at 4300m on Laguna Colorada, Southwestern Bolivia." alt="Flamingoes at 4300m on Laguna Colorada, Southwestern Bolivia." src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-57N4STEMM64/UEPEDQaVjZI/AAAAAAAAFds/m2fFP7YDOFI/P1050735_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <a name='more'></a> <p align="center">Laguna Colorada blew us away with its red colour and abundance of flamingos. The colour comes from a special type of algae in the water. We have no idea what the flamingos are doing there.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-4q4WeU-cCNY/UEPEE5AmCRI/AAAAAAAAFd0/8J5pg3lVnBw/s1600-h/P10507988.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px; display: inline" title="Laguna Verde and Volcan Licancabur (5900m), Southwestern Bolivia." alt="Laguna Verde and Volcan Licancabur (5900m), Southwestern Bolivia." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-dP77AOOkSGY/UEPEFUwEX-I/AAAAAAAAFd8/1f2MQQEdZ5o/P1050798_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Laguna Verde and Volcan Licancabur (5900m). The water is green due to the presence of arsenic and copper.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-90sxDUpu26c/UEPEGomg5wI/AAAAAAAAFeE/_va3Zuvq2H8/s1600-h/P105068611.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px; display: inline" title="Salar Capina, Southwestern Bolivia." alt="Salar Capina, Southwestern Bolivia." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-Eh4SACJur3o/UEPEHK5T7XI/AAAAAAAAFeM/H3EvjvA4sB4/P1050686_thumb3.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Descending to the flooded Salar Capina. Miners collect the salt to extract lithium.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-MsBSm5pPhgc/UEPEJcuu5vI/AAAAAAAAFeU/guh5tF0QSrQ/s1600-h/P1050828-Stitch_210.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Frozen Laguna Blanca, Southwestern Bolivia." alt="Frozen Laguna Blanca, Southwestern Bolivia." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-pY7g8gKw8jY/UEPEJ-6KEhI/AAAAAAAAFec/ct1Yc-xKD5E/P1050828-Stitch_2_thumb4.jpg?imgmax=800" width="318" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Morning ice on Laguna Blanca.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/--X-BzjMCumM/UEPELDoZMLI/AAAAAAAAFek/5LxJQQnRa64/s1600-h/P10507678.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Laguna Chalviri, Southwestern Bolivia." alt="Laguna Chalviri, Southwestern Bolivia." src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-DfEXueFlYeM/UEPELre4GcI/AAAAAAAAFes/KO6nElTcsic/P1050767_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Laguna Chalviri at 4400m.</p> <p>The landscape was harsh, barren, and windy. The area is filled with high passes and endless sandy deserts. Also, there are many volcanoes and much activity. Minerals in the hills and clear air make for some beautiful sights. </p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-IPm-MA8n6l4/UEPENE7iBJI/AAAAAAAAFe0/AoWr9tuOyCo/s1600-h/P105078810.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px; display: inline" title="Paso Condor (4700m) in Southwestern Bolivia." alt="Paso Condor (4700m) in Southwestern Bolivia." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-jEaruq86cGM/UEPEN3IKDjI/AAAAAAAAFe8/z5gQrmg3WbM/P1050788_thumb3.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a> <a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-ciW8L0wHxsU/UEPEPBwc8YI/AAAAAAAAFfE/qeeAHPZjb9o/s1600-h/P105075818.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px; display: inline" title="At Paso Sol de Manana, Southwestern Bolivia. Our highest pass of the trip at 4950m." alt="At Paso Sol de Manana, Southwestern Bolivia. Our highest pass of the trip at 4950m." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-7wfwr5rENbc/UEPEPsUShkI/AAAAAAAAFfM/PoqQZD3Rjfk/P1050758_thumb5.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Wonderful colours at Paso del Condor (4700m). And Paso Sol de Manana (4950m), the highest of the trip.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-2FMygWkEbrw/UEPERNsNXII/AAAAAAAAFfU/VpaBNHgqaGk/s1600-h/P105082518.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px; display: inline" title="Volcanoes near Laguna Blanca, Southwestern Bolivia." alt="Volcanoes near Laguna Blanca, Southwestern Bolivia." src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-irCUpA-9KzU/UEPERinoD0I/AAAAAAAAFfc/JiMiqEokqRw/P1050825_thumb5.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Volcanoes near Laguna Blanca.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-LBECqucXMBI/UEPETlGwF5I/AAAAAAAAFfk/x2iI07euzJs/s1600-h/P105075311.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px; display: inline" title="Bubbling mudpits at Sol de Manana, Southwestern Bolivia." alt="Bubbling mudpits at Sol de Manana, Southwestern Bolivia." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-_xIxcNxopKA/UEPEUPhhssI/AAAAAAAAFfs/oyEtmXiZbYQ/P1050753_thumb3.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Bubbling mud and fumaroles at Sol de Manana.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-lGMFcEdaHwc/UEPEVKOBCgI/AAAAAAAAFf0/kC90WeVkk44/s1600-h/P105078111.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px; display: inline" title="Piedras del Dali, Southwestern Bolivia." alt="Piedras del Dali, Southwestern Bolivia." src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-cnXM6wPuZnM/UEPEV_fbOsI/AAAAAAAAFf8/d9zExmq8k_w/P1050781_thumb3.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">The strange Piedras del Dali in the Desierto del Dali.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-daWhNXErK4Q/UEPEXpi5iBI/AAAAAAAAFgE/TlA2dSo4T-w/s1600-h/P105076211.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px; display: inline" title="Riding through what could be a Martian landscape at 4900m in Southwestern Bolivia." alt="Riding through what could be a Martian landscape at 4900m in Southwestern Bolivia." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-2IT-uX5LXSY/UEPEYJifOxI/AAAAAAAAFgM/DHa3w1zTyOY/P1050762_thumb3.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Riding on what could be Mars at 4900m.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-C1kM-DHbvv0/UEPEY7yOe_I/AAAAAAAAFgU/Yu50v7UgUv0/s1600-h/P10508208.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px; display: inline" title="Unreal sunset at Laguna Blanca, Southwestern Bolivia." alt="Unreal sunset at Laguna Blanca, Southwestern Bolivia." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-TIho9hq-Vqw/UEPEZlJ_FVI/AAAAAAAAFgc/o5nIRfrH8mA/P1050820_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Even the sunsets seemed more colourful.</p> <p>Surprisingly, there was also a lot of wildlife to keep us interested. The area is famous for flamingos. But in addition, we saw viscachas (rabbit like things with long tails), suris (small ostriches), zorro andinos (Andean foxes), and lots of vicunas.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-i_5FOh6cHAc/UEPEa8Dj48I/AAAAAAAAFgk/YY90qBh1rU0/s1600-h/P105073711.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Flamingoes in flight on Laguna Colorada, Southwestern Bolivia." alt="Flamingoes in flight on Laguna Colorada, Southwestern Bolivia." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-7de3NKydhxU/UEPEbSFWbVI/AAAAAAAAFgs/qsdGiamIw2k/P1050737_thumb3.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="179"></a> <a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-juLGiWabRqE/UEPEcol2eTI/AAAAAAAAFg0/cDfX61jspiE/s1600-h/P10506747.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Viscacha in the rocks near Villamar, Southwestern Bolivia." alt="Viscacha in the rocks near Villamar, Southwestern Bolivia." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-hctcfSsaLzw/UEPEdMjRXzI/AAAAAAAAFg8/wYhRifb9vaQ/P1050674_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Flamingos in flight on Laguna Colorada and a viscacha on some rocks near Villamar.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-mQOwY7xzcrM/UEPEe4hd7RI/AAAAAAAAFhE/WZusw4G8gDw/s1600-h/P10508514.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Zorro Andino (Andean Fox) near Susques, AR." alt="Zorro Andino (Andean Fox) near Susques, AR." src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-3f-cDbgq64M/UEPEfzGLo1I/AAAAAAAAFhM/a09Pkig9i-o/P1050851_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a> <a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-8pWTTNs8h4w/UEPEg05EZgI/AAAAAAAAFhU/NhMOjZKgp74/s1600-h/P10507794.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Vicunas and mountains in Southwestern Bolivia." alt="Vicunas and mountains in Southwestern Bolivia." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-DM7uQ0YszBE/UEPEhhVbwrI/AAAAAAAAFhc/nZGxQU8tIf4/P1050779_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a> </p> <p align="center">An Andean fox we scared from his lunch and Vicunas in the Desierto del Dali.</p> <p>We were anticipating that we would camp most of the time. But due to the wind we found ourselves searching for shelter at the end of the day. There wasn’t much accommodation, but we managed to find some pretty spectacular places to sleep:</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-NyJtGzHdmoY/UEPEjG0XP8I/AAAAAAAAFhk/gxzJ4Qm4__o/s1600-h/P10506384.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Staying in a salt hotel in San Juan, Southwestern Bolivia." alt="Staying in a salt hotel in San Juan, Southwestern Bolivia." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-GDM4WKi8aNY/UEPEj141q5I/AAAAAAAAFhs/AjRyw1Aph5w/P1050638_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Staying in a salt hotel in San Juan. The whole building is made from blocks of salt.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-AU3PFLaSpYw/UEPElVQwanI/AAAAAAAAFh0/jy5xrJLugno/s1600-h/P10506888.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px; display: inline" title="After an enriching experience staying at a lithium mining camp near Salar Capina, Southwestern Bolivia." alt="After an enriching experience staying at a lithium mining camp near Salar Capina, Southwestern Bolivia." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-gI04sAOb3zQ/UEPEmJUsIWI/AAAAAAAAFh8/D6rW3GZd2Sg/P1050688_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">A lithium mining camp near Salar Capina. The boss found us a place to sleep and we had some pretty interesting conversations with the miners.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-q7eUm6uB0XU/UEPEngCytbI/AAAAAAAAFiE/QtruWfsFMsE/s1600-h/P10507478.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px; display: inline" title="Setting up camp at 4900m in 60km/hr winds near geyser Sol de Manana, Southwestern Bolivia." alt="Setting up camp at 4900m in 60km/hr winds near geyser Sol de Manana, Southwestern Bolivia." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-8MzrmdRmsV0/UEPEoQy-sPI/AAAAAAAAFiM/s_k7tvQethQ/P1050747_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Camping in the wind at 4900m at geyser Sol de Manana. During the night we could hear the geyser whistling and feel the ground rumbling.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-GNAn5hlGHuc/UEPEpm9dyKI/AAAAAAAAFiU/Wn9rDbV6OmM/s1600-h/P10507698.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px; display: inline" title="Soaking in thermales and watching flamingoes at 4400m, Laguna Chalviri, Southwestern Bolivia." alt="Soaking in thermales and watching flamingoes at 4400m, Laguna Chalviri, Southwestern Bolivia." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-z5rhLnte65Y/UEPEqFjUKII/AAAAAAAAFic/svk0D6Mb0oU/P1050769_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="178"></a></p> <p align="center">Soaking in some hot springs at 4400m while watching the flamingos on Laguna Chalviri. The owners of the restaurant across the road let cyclists sleep on the floor.</p> <p>As for the riding …</p> <p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-AXEQam36sJo/UEPErhenZSI/AAAAAAAAFik/GFm_0mDvRLQ/s1600-h/P10508148.jpg"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" title="Stream crossing alongside Laguna Verde, Southwestern Bolivia." alt="Stream crossing alongside Laguna Verde, Southwestern Bolivia." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-gmteTQp08Ro/UEPEsCDbvMI/AAAAAAAAFis/jgMb35VhBDk/P1050814_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p>We’ve been fortunate heading South that the riding has gotten steadily more difficult as the trip went on. The US prepared us for the heat and wind of Central America, which prepared us for the steep hills of Colombia, which prepared us for the deserts and 4000m climbs of Peru, which prepared us for the altitude of Bolivia. Each time we met a new challenge, we felt ready and were able to tackle it with confidence. This section was definitely the hardest.</p> <p>This route is famous for bad roads. There were sandy roads, washboard roads, rocky roads, and every combination, including our personal favourite: rocky, washboard roads covered in sand. </p> <p>But the most difficult part was the howling winds, sometimes upwards of 80km/hr!</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-1HwGN6iCr4E/UEPEtR_feyI/AAAAAAAAFi0/FO3fdNMTNVo/s1600-h/P105063510.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Walking the bike through harsh winds and a duststorm near San Juan, Southwestern Bolivia." alt="Walking the bike through harsh winds and a duststorm near San Juan, Southwestern Bolivia." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-Uo61lgcuGAw/UEPEtx589CI/AAAAAAAAFi8/ofQqwYdE5Yw/P1050635_thumb3.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Pushing the bikes through debilitating winds and a dust storm near San Juan. This day we covered 22km in 4 hours!</p> <p align="left">It’s pretty safe to say that pushing a 50kg bicycle uphill through loose rocks and sand in 60km/hr winds and subzero temperatures at 5000m is going to be the hardest experience of the trip.</p> <p>Our bicycles took a beating too. Dave’s front rack broke due to the bouncing. We had to tighten all the screws each day and we still lost some. Jenn even lost a screw from the bottom of her shoe, twice! The dry air and dust made any plastic brittle, so all the zippers on our clothes and tent stopped working and we broke a few buckles on bags.</p> <p>… but looking back, the hardships melt away. Instead we remember the unforgettable experience in one of the most beautiful places we’ve ever seen.</p> <p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-oDa8Z7zDAqc/UEPEvHO6y2I/AAAAAAAAFjE/0XKSUL40ffQ/s1600-h/P105081210.jpg"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" title="Laguna Verde, Southwestern Bolivia." alt="Laguna Verde, Southwestern Bolivia." src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-qv9FlalWoO8/UEPEvnC02ZI/AAAAAAAAFjM/WwQB6yGEoIQ/P1050812_thumb4.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> DJ Braydenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12014657673408410730noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8617115763088595907.post-84380763823462004472012-08-29T09:53:00.001-07:002015-06-28T19:10:20.971-07:00Five Things To Do on the Salar de Uyuni<p>The Salar de Uyuni is the largest salt flat in the world. It's over 100km wide, blindingly white, and dead flat. And it’s a right of passage when cycling South America to ride right across the salt surface.</p> <p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-_1WPJy3nY7M/UD5E22-c72I/AAAAAAAABeY/Qy7tlLNdxIk/s1600-h/P10505114.jpg"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" title="Riding on the Salar de Uyuni." alt="Riding on the Salar de Uyuni." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-89hcXUFdd_0/UD5FJuyWNuI/AAAAAAAABeg/t7rsLjAoCWo/P1050511_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p>The salt flat is so huge that you can ride for an hour and the view doesn’t change one bit. So cyclists have a few tricks up their sleeves to pass the time during the crossing. Here are five of our favourite ways to entertain oneself on the Salar de Uyuni.</p> <a name='more'></a> <h2>1. Ride with your Eyes Closed</h2> <p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Ec_SlZMgxFE/UD5FhSeuiTI/AAAAAAAABeo/FG5pdoSQUYc/s1600-h/P10505074.jpg"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" title="Eyes closed on the Salar de Uyuni." alt="Eyes closed on the Salar de Uyuni." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-o_VzTINq02I/UD5Fk8EmmJI/AAAAAAAABew/Ia1klalGxnY/P1050507_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p>Despite what your mother told you, riding a bike with your eyes closed is a great way to pass the afternoon. Dave managed 7 minutes and Jenn 9 minutes before eventually spinning into a dizzy spiral. A related game is bicycle Marco Polo.</p> <h2>2. Visit the Ojos del Salar</h2> <p>The salar actually has water underneath. At the Ojos (eyes) you can see it bubbling through the salt. </p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-RqvLaajpfqI/UD5GAT4mQ1I/AAAAAAAABe4/G2DDJUpvjqM/s1600-h/P10505014.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Ojos del sal on the Salar de Uyuni." alt="Ojos del sal on the Salar de Uyuni." src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-fG0MHbgOvRA/UD5GTidJ85I/AAAAAAAABfA/568IxhOhkz8/P1050501_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Yikes!</p> <p><em>Note: A visit to the Ojos should not be combined with activity #1.</em></p> <h2>3. Take Silly Perspective Pictures</h2> <p>The air on the salar is spectacularly clear. So if you’ve ever wanted to …</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Uu5CWiCK3z8/UD5GfDQfsLI/AAAAAAAABfI/P32cdOzU2Qc/s1600-h/P10505624.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Jenn about to brush her teeth." alt="Jenn about to brush her teeth." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-vTHCnO9qaZY/UD5GhY7nN0I/AAAAAAAABfQ/GD-K2qLYIho/P1050562_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="180" height="240"></a></p> <p align="center">… hang out with a giant toothbrush …</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-9r2hIANTokI/UD5GuJlliAI/AAAAAAAABfY/rEKv5DD414o/s1600-h/P10505664.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Bike surfing on the Salar de Uyuni." alt="Bike surfing on the Salar de Uyuni." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-lsN8-RSI4Sc/UD5Gy6zyFHI/AAAAAAAABfg/2nd6-acnLhc/P1050566_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">… go bicycle surfing …</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-0rK2P6py6oM/UD5HDHWhMqI/AAAAAAAABfo/3qsDOiBqJ08/s1600-h/P10506074.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Vroom vroom." alt="Vroom vroom." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-eRyVX9ycXGQ/UD5HGrD_kjI/AAAAAAAABfw/1WMWxwQp-rY/P1050607_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">… drive a shoe …</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-6gx23j2RdX0/UD5HSy54VEI/AAAAAAAABf4/1qXXqobOudE/s1600-h/P10506009.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Devil on my shoulder" alt="Devil on my shoulder" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-oqyG42a5mes/UD5HXNCCeqI/AAAAAAAABgA/PugzCO4KJJM/P1050600_thumb3.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a> <a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-zviuEoI9HiE/UD5Hiqq6j-I/AAAAAAAABgI/LVTWRfyldHo/s1600-h/P10506039.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Angel on my shoulder." alt="Angel on my shoulder." src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-dmH6tFMUAfw/UD5Hlv79QWI/AAAAAAAABgQ/qVTvwCnISTI/P1050603_thumb3.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">… or be the angel / devil on someone’s shoulder, this is the place for you.</p> <h2>4. Sleep on Isla Incahuasi</h2> <p>Just like the actual ocean, the salar has islands in it. Isla Incahuasi lies pretty much right in the middle and is covered with big barrel cacti. A family lives on the island and has a refugio just for cyclists.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-6hVZ2L5fnZo/UD5IH7-0iWI/AAAAAAAABgY/1gbTEs7oWMo/s1600-h/P10505374.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Isla Incahuasi on the Salar de Uyuni." alt="Isla Incahuasi on the Salar de Uyuni." src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-JOPE6zMv0Yk/UD5IVCPXGII/AAAAAAAABgg/BBN4V4OhcXY/P1050537_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Isla Incahuasi rising from the salt.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-7iSvzVHRP2A/UD5Im-k4OaI/AAAAAAAABgo/ASEHIL4OKBc/s1600-h/P10505494.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="View from the refugio on Isla Incahuasi in the Salar de Uyuni." alt="View from the refugio on Isla Incahuasi in the Salar de Uyuni." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-EXmfTcQCZw4/UD5IqJLq0zI/AAAAAAAABgw/tF7q1UDAins/P1050549_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Morning view from the refugio window.</p> <h2>5. Feel the Breeze</h2> <p>But watch out for that sunburn!</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-57kmm8zc0zE/UD5I34UjL5I/AAAAAAAABg4/tv6iV-3vi_w/s1600-h/P10505264.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Honeymooning on the Salar de Uyuni." alt="Honeymooning on the Salar de Uyuni." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-zwqH_vF4pVw/UD5I6MRS7aI/AAAAAAAABhA/-6TY3XvRbYA/P1050526_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="173"></a></p> David Braydenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03168652029329823825noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8617115763088595907.post-90653386367185893072012-08-11T16:46:00.001-07:002015-06-28T19:10:20.994-07:00One Hand in My Pocket<p>We have been in Bolivia for two weeks now and for such a small place it is a land of extremes. From the abundance, heat and humidity of the jungle…</p> <p><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-b7mlR7GqKwA/UCbtFk1ynvI/AAAAAAAAAvs/u_ks8CRAdBk/s1600-h/P1050397%252520Stitch%25255B6%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" title=""El Camino de Muerte" (aka. The Death Road, the world's most dangerous road)." alt=""El Camino de Muerte" (aka. The Death Road, the world's most dangerous road)." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-mHRm8YjvLcg/UCbtHrc7WkI/AAAAAAAAAv0/z9F0yJbBGfE/P1050397%252520Stitch_thumb%25255B3%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="450" height="152"></a></p> <p align="center">The “Death Road” drops over 3000m in 65km and over 25 vehicles would plunge over it’s side annually while it was still in use.</p> <p><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-Q0qAn2zXbpg/UCbtMhhOg9I/AAAAAAAAAv8/YCjiNLs2zDU/s1600-h/P1050405%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" title="Living on the edge, El Camino de Muerte." alt="Living on the edge, El Camino de Muerte." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-9FYu5QxKtY4/UCbtTQpdhEI/AAAAAAAAAwE/WAAiOklwP3o/P1050405_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="181" height="240"></a></p> <p align="center">Jenn contemplating the consequences.</p> <a name='more'></a> <p align="left">To the cold, bleak and dry altiplano…</p> <p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-L-mDLNS4iIg/UCbtaFz_dUI/AAAAAAAAAwM/-UdAK73iv4Q/s1600-h/P1050428%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" title="Geography near Potosi." alt="Geography near Potosi." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/--WltcBTsU4Y/UCbtdTp5_XI/AAAAAAAAAwU/ag1R5Q3sq9I/P1050428_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p>To the many sides of the culturally advanced capital, La Paz.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-N79PeAmnkLM/UCbtg4rFoLI/AAAAAAAAAwc/FSIfwBX4VJ8/s1600-h/P1050392%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="La Paz, highrises and colonial houses." alt="La Paz, highrises and colonial houses." src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-sNWqx-USrbQ/UCbtmSpSdKI/AAAAAAAAAwk/zXNtEd0YiZA/P1050392_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="180" height="240"></a> <a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-r6THOCYhpJU/UCbtuYYDocI/AAAAAAAAAws/K6zWlOwVzXE/s1600-h/P1050409%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Calle Jaen, La Paz colonial district." alt="Calle Jaen, La Paz colonial district." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-FL0F38F3CIg/UCbtvXVwfdI/AAAAAAAAAw0/wbDhnTsI3wE/P1050409_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="180" height="240"></a></p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-Es_ZQO34-7I/UCbt0EmJtaI/AAAAAAAAAw8/otwaPkgvCvM/s1600-h/P1050413%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" title="Korean cyclist dinner in La Paz." alt="Korean cyclist dinner in La Paz." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-Zuqz_hvZSgQ/UCbt1lGu4II/AAAAAAAAAxE/Lc6S05MLS44/P1050413_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Enjoying a delicious Korean meal with fellow cyclists from the Casa de Ciclistas in La Paz: <a href="http://twoblindtoride.org/" target="_blank">Tauru and Christie</a>, Julian, and Martin.</p> <p align="left">After leaving La Paz we headed south across the altiplano to Oruro. We arrived in time to celebrate our anniversary and the anniversary of Bolivia’s independence. It was a night and a day full of parades, fireworks and an appearance by the current and controversial president Evo Morales.</p> <p align="left">Unfortunately in the hustle and bustle of the crowd someone took it upon themselves to relieve Dave of his wallet (thankfully he didn’t have the camera too, hence no photos in this section). On top of that, the next morning Dave caught a youngster taking a reach inside his already empty pocket. Thus reinforcing the negative vibe we have been on the receiving end of here. We can’t help but feel like somebody’s hand is always in our pockets. We consistently have to fight for fair pricing and services. No one goes out of their way here to enhance our “tourist” experience, but everyone wants a piece of the pie bought with our tourist dollars. </p> <p align="left">Trying to keep an open mind and focus on the good experiences we continued 300km through the difficult riding of the Cordillera de los Frailes to Potosi.</p> <p align="left"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-u9uiqQDE4Js/UCbt5A-39BI/AAAAAAAAAxM/QwuAZDNd4Xk/s1600-h/P1050435%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" title="Riding into " alt="Riding into " src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-oTSMUB5czRI/UCbt6CamZoI/AAAAAAAAAxU/JPskEIvlwZc/P1050435_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="180" height="240" potosi.? to climb final the for Puerta? La></a></p> <p align="center">Riding into La Puerta (the door) for the final climb to Potosi.</p> <p align="left">Despite Bolivia being the country most rich in mineral resources in South America it is also the poorest. This is due largely in part to the exploitation and mismanagement of these resources by the conquering Spanish. The most important mineral was, and still is silver. </p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-8B5_lzdCcEM/UCbt_mROMwI/AAAAAAAAAxc/-G2cHCd-J3Y/s1600-h/P1050446%25255B7%25255D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px; display: inline" title="Cerro Rico." alt="Cerro Rico." src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-2HlDqntk0ps/UCbuA5n0-bI/AAAAAAAAAxk/YJTZTMO3pac/P1050446_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a> <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-eMEyIIHT8_8/UCbuF2qoSQI/AAAAAAAAAxs/CXVnhLC81e8/s1600-h/P1050445%25255B7%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="View over Potosi." alt="View over Potosi." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-Uid2fxJFKu4/UCbuHKDlkII/AAAAAAAAAx0/DThH7DuVwaQ/P1050445_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Cerro Rico (Rich Mountain) looking over the town of Potosi, once the biggest city in the world due to it’s mineral wealth.</p> <p align="left">However, even though most deposits have been all but depleted, the people here once physically forced to work in the horrible conditions of the mines are now forced to do so out of necessity. Despite the fact that over eight million people have died extracting silver from Potosi’s Cerro Rico, thousands of men, and boys as young as ten, still come to work here everyday.</p> <p>We decided to experience the mines for ourselves on an eye-opening tour.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-RMGtp8iTj_g/UCbuKf7ZM9I/AAAAAAAAAx8/r4YwiTLQP4c/s1600-h/P1050437%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Ready for the mines." alt="Ready for the mines." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-zdhFRBPrstU/UCbuLU7T2UI/AAAAAAAAAyE/nicttTBCAEg/P1050437_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="180" height="240"></a> <a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-1f2awWB7k9s/UCbuPqhPYgI/AAAAAAAAAyM/nAuNpqIYGGg/s1600-h/P1050447%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Ready for blasting." alt="Ready for blasting." src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-IrSfgf0pahg/UCbuR4ssyMI/AAAAAAAAAyU/iF4flDzzOO4/P1050447_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="181" height="240"></a></p> <p align="center">Ready to go in our protective gear, but it won’t do anything for that stick of dynamite in Jenn’s mouth.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-jaDiNyKG26M/UCbuWyaKr9I/AAAAAAAAAyc/rXfMFlLWY0o/s1600-h/P1050456%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="A not so comfortable tunnel." alt="A not so comfortable tunnel." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-YmN6FcxbFdw/UCbuXzHhaXI/AAAAAAAAAyk/er_vKi5WHvc/P1050456_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">The conditions are tough, the tunnels small, wet and treacherous, the air dusty and toxic and the temperatures vary from freezing to 40 degrees Celsius.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-OwfvAyn4Tlg/UCbudExIgEI/AAAAAAAAAys/UbGsrESC4Fc/s1600-h/P1050460%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="It's over 40 degrees celcius in this chamber where they load up the 2 ton carts." alt="It's over 40 degrees celcius in this chamber where they load up the 2 ton carts." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-yRF4nx6WbJE/UCbueX4zM8I/AAAAAAAAAy0/OwdDycvcNdA/P1050460_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a> <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-eYf6JErdAr4/UCbui3UofII/AAAAAAAAAy8/onPUzPDeuU4/s1600-h/P1050464%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Miners at work." alt="Miners at work." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-_5uieaAKtMs/UCbuknRMwkI/AAAAAAAAAzE/ww_JRlKqNvY/P1050464_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-C1nvjYB2AiI/UCbuoF8OAUI/AAAAAAAAAzM/Hka1-e8MT-8/s1600-h/P1050461%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" title="Operating the electric winch." alt="Operating the electric winch." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-G-6z2gs7dgI/UCbupHfod8I/AAAAAAAAAzU/UlP-KOuXobk/P1050461_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="180" height="240"></a></p> <p align="center">Despite all that, these guys work 8 – 24hr shifts to earn their $14 per day.</p> <p align="left">To keep them safe in the mines the miners worship a form of the Devil called “El Tio”. Being the ruler of the underworld he protects them if they make offers of cigarettes, coca leaves (which they chew constantly to increase energy and stave off hunger) and alcohol. Even if they survive the constant threat of explosions, collapses and carbon monoxide most will not survive more than 20 years in the mines due to the inhalation of silica dust and the deadly illness it causes, silicosis pneumonia.</p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-aiKUv5DwtDw/UCbutdKIdtI/AAAAAAAAAzc/qP3ZDCJZRYM/s1600-h/P1050468%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" title="El Tio." alt="El Tio." src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-0GQ7Q1iSwtQ/UCbuuth5m9I/AAAAAAAAAzk/3NtDZbejVkk/P1050468_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="180" height="240"></a></p> <p align="center">El Tio all decorated.</p> <p align="left">All this for silver. So the rich could have their silver spoons and oddities like llama shaped pipes.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-_pQV0MUKVoA/UCbuyk8rzrI/AAAAAAAAAzs/6SDY-vxLXwU/s1600-h/P1050477%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Silver spoons." alt="Silver spoons." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-KlN0KRHUc6Q/UCbuzlDr0aI/AAAAAAAAAz0/-wLlFZMdoYQ/P1050477_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a> <a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-pFIh6Aao-l8/UCbu43MdIdI/AAAAAAAAAz8/qSHS8urQxaU/s1600-h/P1050478%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Silver llama pipe." alt="Silver llama pipe." src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-5q5IpJ0OESU/UCbu58zAprI/AAAAAAAAA0E/KtiEwBJe9wM/P1050478_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Photos from our visit to “South Americas best museum” the Casa de Monedas (coin house) and Potosi’s former mint.</p> <p align="left">From here it’s back out of the mountains to Uyuni, on the edge of the world’s largest salt flat, to prepare for our ride across it and into Bolivia’s famously beautiful Lagoon Region.</p> Jennifer Braydenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08516145994906317592noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8617115763088595907.post-76385961057212741752012-07-31T14:08:00.001-07:002015-06-28T19:10:20.959-07:00High Altitude Lake Livin'<p>Lake Titicaca sits right on the border of Peru and Bolivia in the high, dry altiplano. It is known as the highest navigable lake in the world (or the largest high altitude lake) and is the mythical birthplace of the sun and moon in Inca mythology. </p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-tohfWhQ7WUY/UBgkurgYYPI/AAAAAAAABYY/uUFxZwlPEs4/s1600-h/P1050243%252520Stitch%25255B5%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Puno on the shore of Lake Titicaca." alt="Puno on the shore of Lake Titicaca." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-kxzTUYzvgMc/UBgkwZA_DcI/AAAAAAAABYg/CoEvnEUSJto/P1050243%252520Stitch_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="320" height="184"></a></p> <p align="center">Puno on the shores of Lake Titicaca.</p> <p>Our last leg has taken us in a semicircle around the lake from Puno, Peru to La Paz, Bolivia. On the way we’ve seen some gorgeous scenery and have had a chance to visit a few of the beautiful islands.</p> <a name='more'></a> <p><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-elR2dJ7lXLc/UBgk7QipaHI/AAAAAAAABYs/zeaIr0dOne0/s1600-h/P1050275%25255B8%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" title="Uros floating islands on Lake Titicaca." alt="Uros floating islands on Lake Titicaca." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-1nTZBGJgxpo/UBgk-f-XYEI/AAAAAAAABY0/KEN5e42uTbI/P1050275_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p>About 600 years ago a group of people called the Uros fled to the lake to escape from the warlike Cholla and Inca cultures on the mainland. They gathered reeds which grow in the shallows of the lake and constructed boats and floating islands to live in separation and peace. Today they still live on these islands (about 70 in total) although now the main industry is tourism.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-R643_1Y7DHE/UBglLxtwOyI/AAAAAAAABY8/SdMfX9V49wI/s1600-h/P1050272%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Uros floating islands on Lake Titicaca." alt="Uros floating islands on Lake Titicaca." src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/--j32K7M9iMw/UBglWkVXnPI/AAAAAAAABZE/iFjY5XAMwJE/P1050272_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Floating islands and houses made of reeds.</p> <p>The islands are made by cutting cubic metre chunks of roots from the reeds and tying them together into platforms. Then the top of the platform is padded with about another metre of reed stalks to create a surface out of the water. Every week or two they add another layer of reeds to the top to compensate for the decay beneath.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-hYG6aGHDY6o/UBglthZnAAI/AAAAAAAABZM/22WUU4sWxN8/P1050267%25255B4%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800"><img style="display: inline" title="Little Uro on the floating islands." alt="Little Uro on the floating islands." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-Xxw3VRKjHiM/UBgl5p6SSTI/AAAAAAAABZU/INePyJX5kjs/P1050267_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="180" height="240"></a></p> <p align="center">Local girl in her traditional wear.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-rf4ZXlc32uw/UBgnyKr-yNI/AAAAAAAABZc/xfoVX1X9GIc/s1600-h/P1050261%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Posing with a reed boat on Lake Titicaca." alt="Posing with a reed boat on Lake Titicaca." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-MHu-zOYNApw/UBgn1E4DAvI/AAAAAAAABZk/NKVV0aYcBI4/P1050261_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Us with a reed and wood boat on one of the islands.</p> <p>We also got a chance to stay overnight with a family on an actual island, Amantani. With them we ate, explored, and danced at a party of locals and tourists.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-3XmUGcroZnU/UBgoJUvFMmI/AAAAAAAABZs/Vzc5qlXJH24/s1600-h/P1050282%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Potatoes and fried cheese for dinner on Isla Amantani on Lake Titicaca." alt="Potatoes and fried cheese for dinner on Isla Amantani on Lake Titicaca." src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-oCCxd_o1J2A/UBgoMHrZYUI/AAAAAAAABZ0/ObloMYWdC5w/P1050282_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">One of Peru’s more interesting dinners of all sorts of potatoes with fried cheese.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-JNOfmeMah_Y/UBgoQlFoKQI/AAAAAAAABZ8/SgVKbeFvehQ/s1600-h/P1050291%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Sunset on Lake Titicaca from Isla Amantani." alt="Sunset on Lake Titicaca from Isla Amantani." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-4Gjeod_i-3Y/UBgoRu0WaXI/AAAAAAAABaE/E8mLw-TGRQg/P1050291_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a> <a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-Pk9CsLlmIDg/UBgoZpvM-sI/AAAAAAAABaM/W-Bpvxp6Pu8/s1600-h/P1050303%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Dressed in our traditional costumes for the party on Isla Amantani." alt="Dressed in our traditional costumes for the party on Isla Amantani." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-srW7rz2sbsk/UBgobc1yRsI/AAAAAAAABaU/UKrwXQkGaY0/P1050303_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">The sun goes down and the party begins. Us in our borrowed costumes.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-9mypUwtuqN4/UBgou0zpfvI/AAAAAAAABac/OSLe8C9k-y8/s1600-h/P1050317%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="On Isla Taquile the men do the knitting." alt="On Isla Taquile the men do the knitting." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-LH3dqGGIz6E/UBgoxXwVbNI/AAAAAAAABak/tDgyEWe1YmA/P1050317_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">On another island, Taquile, it’s the men who do the knitting instead of the women.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-lm0zjVyulGI/UBgpCBKRfGI/AAAAAAAABas/X0txKTfIrvw/s1600-h/P1050319%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="The women on Isla Taquile give their husbands this belt closed with a lock made from their lost hair which they have collected over the years." alt="The women on Isla Taquile give their husbands this belt closed with a lock made from their lost hair which they have collected over the years." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-INPaeiGFAKw/UBgpESKqcJI/AAAAAAAABa0/iiGeHsjl-Dk/P1050319_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">But when a couple gets married the bride makes her husband this belt including hair that she’s collected over her life up until that point. I think it’s kind of romantic, Jenn thinks it’s gross :)</p> <p>The last island that we visited was La Isla del Sol (actually in Bolivia). It is the mythical birthplace of the sun in Incan mythology and definitely the most picturesque island.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-tfesewJwBlU/UBgpRpk6HZI/AAAAAAAABa8/HRpQaYJZjqE/s1600-h/P1050348%25255B7%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Ancient altar on Isla del Sol, Lake Titicaca." alt="Ancient altar on Isla del Sol, Lake Titicaca." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-8i76bqybyDg/UBgpVW0OJsI/AAAAAAAABbE/diT2a1CzaQw/P1050348_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="179"></a></p> <p align="center">Ceremonial altar on La Isla del Sol (Island of the Sun).</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-b4L-vq-rQvk/UBgpdgQN-OI/AAAAAAAABbM/VPlq7YZiVIs/s1600-h/P1050352%25255B12%25255D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px; display: inline" title="La Isla del Sol, Lake Titicaca." alt="La Isla del Sol, Lake Titicaca." src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-VoO5da1b9AI/UBgpf1fmXVI/AAAAAAAABbU/zIUJcQz0XB4/P1050352_thumb%25255B4%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a> <a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-eDcSk0ZsOfE/UBgptw5QG9I/AAAAAAAABbc/Yjsip2iJrT8/s1600-h/P1050360%25255B11%25255D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px; display: inline" title="Looking out from the Isla del Sol, Lake Titicaca." alt="Looking out from the Isla del Sol, Lake Titicaca." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-8wUb02WObzs/UBgpvHfUF0I/AAAAAAAABbk/p9Xkl1JnJw4/P1050360_thumb%25255B3%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Despite the cold and elevation, La Isla del Sol looks almost tropical.</p> <p>From Puno we rode along the lake for almost three days. The scenery was soo beautiful that we couldn’t help but think how lucky we were to be here.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-QZtpGMBhNvo/UBgp3FO-UVI/AAAAAAAABbs/sXX-3PPnZPg/s1600-h/P1050343%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Llamas and Lake Titicaca, Peru." alt="Llamas and Lake Titicaca, Peru." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-l4jrVAQzC6Y/UBgp4m5Ce5I/AAAAAAAABb0/Q6bUPWbMcug/P1050343_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="179"></a></p> <p align="center">Llamas and the lake.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-62-hLLlM7dY/UBhI2Btw-wI/AAAAAAAABco/QPlhxYOweyE/s1600-h/P1050329%252520%2525281024x770%252529%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Teachers strike, Puno." alt="Teachers strike, Puno." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-_vd1Ufb6EM8/UBhI4HF3O3I/AAAAAAAABcw/YwcyIinIJTc/P1050329%252520%2525281024x770%252529_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">The Peruvian government is in hot water over it’s mistreatment of Peru’s teachers. Roadblocks like this one have sprung up all over Peru. It’s no problem to pass through on foot or bike though. All we get is a friendly greeting and a warning to look out for the glass they’ve broken all over the road.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-w_WxA0e6MoA/UBhI7xgYKXI/AAAAAAAABc4/Bcy1K0kZ53s/s1600-h/P1050344%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Welcome to Boliva!" alt="Welcome to Boliva!" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-ZN2bEKUx8po/UBhI_QnizBI/AAAAAAAABdA/8iqQzb-bUfk/P1050344_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="180" height="240"></a></p> <p align="center">After two and a half wonderful months in Peru, Bolivia at last.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-1u4KFz6908c/UBhJHNHkvKI/AAAAAAAABdI/kSI8aZS-nz8/s1600-h/P1050374%25255B7%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Ferry crossing on a channel in Lake Titicaca." alt="Ferry crossing on a channel in Lake Titicaca." src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-qPFb0xDf5L0/UBhJQp-LG8I/AAAAAAAABdQ/8i79N32K3m8/P1050374_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="177"></a></p> <p align="center">Bolivian ferries are more akin to rafts with outboard motors. I wonder how many busses have ended up at the bottom of the lake?</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-CqygRbP9awg/UBhJSpyQClI/AAAAAAAABdY/0Kg7s8yfSVw/s1600-h/P1050384%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Downtown La Paz and Illumani." alt="Downtown La Paz and Illumani." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-TkyYCosJ0kc/UBhJUK5-lQI/AAAAAAAABdg/EQW-7qAJqEs/P1050384_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="180" height="240"></a></p> <p align="center">Just a short trip from the lake. Bolivia’s capital La Paz and Illumani Mountain.</p> <p>Now we’re resting at the famous Casa de Ciclistas in La Paz and planning our route. The owner Christian invites cyclists to stay in his apartment to share experiences and rest up. With approximately twelve other cyclists here it’s hard to leave. </p>David Braydenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03168652029329823825noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8617115763088595907.post-65552016719808080482012-07-25T19:49:00.001-07:002015-06-28T19:10:20.928-07:00Inca Aftershocks<p>Although Machu Picchu is the centre of Inca tourism, there are many more very interesting sites in the area. We were fortunate enough to visit some of these near Cusco and on the way to our next destination of Puno on the shores of Lake Titicaca. In the process we learned a great deal about the Inca civilization and their beliefs.</p> <p>The ruins of the Inca are very impressive because of their talent for stonework. There were different classes of workmanship used in terraces, defense walls, or temples. The stones were shaped by hand with such precision that you can’t even fit the blade of a knife between them. Along with their beauty, clever design has enabled the walls to stand through centuries of earthquakes that have levelled much newer structures.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-497gl3S4nNg/UBCs2k0UPgI/AAAAAAAAEfU/EVsrps8xTfw/s1600-h/P1050126%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1050126" alt="P1050126" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-K_wMNVY_Jv0/UBCs7K2outI/AAAAAAAAEfc/S1HD8WbyBGc/P1050126_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a> <a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-8vIyS6LquZk/UBCtUKfclPI/AAAAAAAAEfk/BgnpcuLdJ7w/s1600-h/P1040868%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1040868" alt="P1040868" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-_LQsHQg2LHc/UBCtarJyLBI/AAAAAAAAEfs/gAPl3OSxxO8/P1040868_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Two examples of Inca stonework. On the left is a wall in the religious centre of Ollantaytambo and on the right is the famous twelve angled stone in Cusco.</p><a name='more'></a> <p>Today in Peru the religious beliefs of the Inca are still practiced alongside Christianity. Their beliefs revolved around the sun, moon, stars, natural phenomena, and animals. The world was divided into three levels: the afterlife above (represented by the condor), the world in which we live (represented by the puma) and the underworld (represented by the serpent).</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-Yy9er3BLbFs/UBCtnsh4DNI/AAAAAAAAEf0/xJETob-y2Dk/s1600-h/P1050161%25255B13%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1050161" alt="P1050161" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Zjo4j2l4dno/UBCtrewoh0I/AAAAAAAAEf8/b_scJbSoTx8/P1050161_thumb%25255B4%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="199" height="240"></a></p> <p align="center">A description of the hierarchy of Incan gods. The ellipse at top represents Wiracocha, the all encompassing god, while the sun and the moon to the sides represent the masculine and feminine gods respectively. Lower down are Pachamama (mother earth) and Mamacocha (the god of water) and eventually humans. Note that the picture is symmetrical, for every masculine figure there is a feminine figure.</p> <p>Many religious idols were created from solid gold, which is what attracted the Spanish during the conquest. For example, the walls of some religious buildings in Cusco were entirely coated in gold! And remaining in one of the temples is a 20kg solid gold figure.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-vfqPCQkV-E0/UBCt7aD4MOI/AAAAAAAAEgE/vjpPl4PMm_s/s1600-h/P1050209%25255B7%25255D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px; display: inline" title="P1050209" alt="P1050209" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-5rFZU4tNz18/UBCuARHZ_EI/AAAAAAAAEgM/wtWRRF8vzCw/P1050209_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">The Incans occasionally practiced human sacrifice, but most often it was llamas who were used in ceremonies.</p> <p>On the way out of Cusco we were able to stop at the site of Tipon. The road was blocked by landslides, leaving us almost alone in the ruins.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-eYtsdMIZAEw/UBCuIeo2xSI/AAAAAAAAEgU/nV8epT9_0L8/s1600-h/P1050211%252520Stitch%25255B5%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1050211 Stitch" alt="P1050211 Stitch" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-sPUXoZsC82I/UBCuO8cb2mI/AAAAAAAAEgc/7WR0VuLBvL0/P1050211%252520Stitch_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="400" height="130"></a></p> <p align="center">The site of Tipon with many terraces and water canals for growing crops. The Inca were experts at cultivating and acclimatizing crops such as potatoes, corn, and coca.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-fkn8bre3Hu4/UBCugZNpPFI/AAAAAAAAEgk/pGql3OQD_nE/s1600-h/P1050205%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1050205" alt="P1050205" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-L8RG2ZPYi18/UBCumtAJR3I/AAAAAAAAEgs/UzPVT9oX38o/P1050205_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">A religious bath in Tipon.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-uf0BOL96VpE/UBCvHFg3ybI/AAAAAAAAEg0/PmwdepJDjPU/s1600-h/P1050216%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1050216" alt="P1050216" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-zrIeYchboZ8/UBCvL-_PEYI/AAAAAAAAEg8/B1bQUTND8Po/P1050216_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Neat steps for getting between the terraces in Tipon.</p> <p>Along with the ruins, we’ve met some great people along the way. Leaving Cusco we ran into Carlos from Argentina, with whom we have been riding for the past four days.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-Er64cadeMLA/UBCvdJu_DQI/AAAAAAAAEhE/kz20NO9Ddb0/s1600-h/P1050231%25255B8%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1050231" alt="P1050231" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-yDElHbBQSZE/UBCvjCNrfTI/AAAAAAAAEhM/LEyKDXJ08nA/P1050231_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Martina and Jons, Carlos, and us at our last pass of Peru.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-KV2MaTLDw1s/UBCvuFehpQI/AAAAAAAAEhU/YTA5JoDeKQA/s1600-h/P1050220%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1050220" alt="P1050220" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-v4fj6U-9th4/UBCvy-OTw4I/AAAAAAAAEhc/gLWpmdSNuKk/P1050220_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Some kids helping Carlos fix a flat. Who wants to pump up my tire? ... I do, I do!</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-KGJX6VdtlrQ/UBCv3O5HhrI/AAAAAAAAEhk/UljHwGohkVw/s1600-h/P1050225%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1050225" alt="P1050225" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-84NsnxXymM8/UBCv5vAipUI/AAAAAAAAEhs/A3jXPW6YIY8/P1050225_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Bathing in thermal pools under the stars between Cusco and Puno.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-4oRsBCFVhag/UBCwJntX0zI/AAAAAAAAEh0/gkv-ubQo_I4/s1600-h/P1050233%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1050233" alt="P1050233" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-TaYNbTozs3E/UBCwPIlu8MI/AAAAAAAAEh8/i91tbk99rk8/P1050233_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Us with Christian and his family who welcomed us into their hotel with open arms in Pucara and went out of their way to make sure we were comfortable and well fed.</p> <p>Now we’re continuing to explore around beautiful Lake Titicaca, the largest high altitude lake in the world. Next stop: Bolivia!</p>DJ Braydenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12014657673408410730noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8617115763088595907.post-28788451566538251782012-07-17T08:11:00.001-07:002015-06-28T19:10:20.827-07:00Inca Pilgrimage<p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-ZUCVaDEJ50M/UAV_4mBkvEI/AAAAAAAABUA/3TbUs96IFlo/s1600-h/P1050097%25255B8%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" title="P1050097" alt="P1050097" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-qBzRW4J2UzY/UAV_5g4lMXI/AAAAAAAABUI/0H5ANvC6-Ec/P1050097_thumb%25255B5%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="417" height="125"></a></p> <p align="center">The modern, flamboyant flag of the Inca.</p> <p>South America’s most famous site, Machu Picchu, is a little bit isolated in that it can not be accessed by road. This leaves a number of options, including a train trip, the famous Inca Trail, or a bus and walk combination. For our journey we decided to leave the bikes in Cusco and do an organized five day hike called the Salkantay Trek.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-yEyYVULIkYE/UAV_78g1zxI/AAAAAAAABUQ/lP_ga38ATro/s1600-h/P1040956%25255B8%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" title="P1040956" alt="P1040956" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-p93HVJx6jd4/UAV_84TcQRI/AAAAAAAABUY/b_xYIC5vKdU/P1040956_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">We couldn’t have asked for a better group during the hike – Team Apacattack!</p> <a name='more'></a> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-yatODvKlHTg/UAV_-vtB1dI/AAAAAAAABUg/8qQ174Ia6SA/s1600-h/P1040908%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1040908" alt="P1040908" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Gb20RW3OnMc/UAV__R6foJI/AAAAAAAABUo/CXoLeF00nJQ/P1040908_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a> <a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-ayv3U3A5BuM/UAWABdxwsNI/AAAAAAAABUw/d7GBzssyp1k/s1600-h/P1040910%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1040910" alt="P1040910" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-MKMtzJFV8_M/UAWACedSG-I/AAAAAAAABU4/c0kKbsueSkY/P1040910_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">The hike took us up, up, up through the forest, pampa, and into the alpine …</p> <p><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-OCCwaGCdcmU/UAWAEDq1FYI/AAAAAAAABVA/OL6nL4-XmGc/s1600-h/P1040969%252520Stitch%25255B9%25255D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px 10px 0px 0px; display: inline" title="P1040969 Stitch" alt="P1040969 Stitch" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-KcbWp3K4U-g/UAWAE9McfJI/AAAAAAAABVI/KcwNKOeJ91o/P1040969%252520Stitch_thumb%25255B6%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="320" height="155"></a></p> <p>… through a high pass between Salkantay <br>and Humantay mountains …</p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-6QiCBGzYdQg/UAWAHu7c5MI/AAAAAAAABVQ/KiNJtnW7ydM/s1600-h/P1040976%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" title="P1040976" alt="P1040976" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Sl2n4NIOwDU/UAWAIu92uKI/AAAAAAAABVY/Az55uUY9Swk/P1040976_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">… then down, down, down into the jungle …</p> <p align="right"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-Sq7ZC5tG8ms/UAWAKXu2gNI/AAAAAAAABVg/d4OWEf-Dfio/s1600-h/P1040980%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1040980" alt="P1040980" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-4E2jMss3DGs/UAWALfkWdoI/AAAAAAAABVo/0JbSc12zujc/P1040980_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="right">… past some beautiful hot springs …</p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-wYMGDZJS3h4/UAWAOGxC9oI/AAAAAAAABVw/vqhj78CDohE/s1600-h/P1040985%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1040985" alt="P1040985" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-o5Sg-HSP-hw/UAWAPcE3HEI/AAAAAAAABV4/EXm-s9kHGwA/P1040985_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p>… and along the railway tracks to Aguas <br>Calientes, the town at the base of Machu Picchu.</p> <p>Machu Picchu was considered a holy place during the time of the Incas. Many important families would make the pilgrimage here from across the Inca Empire to celebrate important events. When the Spanish arrived Machu Picchu was abandoned, and it sat forgotten and untouched for almost 400 years until it was rediscovered and unearthed in 1911. Since then it has deservedly developed a reputation as one of the most stunning archaeological sites in the world.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-JbR_cHOkXgM/UAWARXxtRQI/AAAAAAAABWA/dWQWoqRf7qQ/s1600-h/P1050016%25255B8%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1050016" alt="P1050016" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-nDFB1QIbZzM/UAWAScdVoII/AAAAAAAABWI/P0Bbb8s3s5g/P1050016_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">We can’t believe that we’re finally here. Waiting for the sun to rise and our tour to begin.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-HER45Q2HDI8/UAWAUqxROhI/AAAAAAAABWQ/kY5VX0Or4sY/s1600-h/P1050064%25255B9%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1050064" alt="P1050064" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-g91yJ9b5fTM/UAWAVlsAVOI/AAAAAAAABWY/wg2WZMMhD8o/P1050064_thumb%25255B3%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">The mortarless Inca stonework has survived many large earthquakes where more modern buildings have fallen.</p> <p>Machu Picchu was not a fortress, but a religious place. The Inca worshipped the natural world: the sun, the moon, the mountains, the sky, and there are many temples dedicated to this. These temples have remained intact since Machu Picchu was not discovered by the Spanish, unlike others which were smashed to make room for Christianity.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-XpvWrq5-mxQ/UAWAXAf0jMI/AAAAAAAABWg/6wgpUJh3SR4/s1600-h/P1050036%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1050036" alt="P1050036" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-iDg7Sxj36ZU/UAWAYHrJFAI/AAAAAAAABWo/PsQGF55WMvw/P1050036_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">The Temple of the Three Windows. </p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-xyh1mCiCgJA/UAWAZWcezlI/AAAAAAAABWw/0ByGRP7LEUA/s1600-h/P1050060%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1050060" alt="P1050060" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-21lIhyMRlZ0/UAWAae8d37I/AAAAAAAABW4/TwIOR3kYDfI/P1050060_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="180" height="240"></a></p> <p align="center">Jenn and the Temple of the Sun.</p> <p>But along with war, the Spanish brought new technologies and ideas to South America. It would be a mistake to think of the Inca as an innocent society that was destroyed by the Spanish. They definitely did not build their empire on friendship and peaceful alliances, and we visited sites from several other cultures in Peru who were decimated during their expansion (such as Chan Chan in Trujillo). But taking in the ruins one can’t help but wonder what the world could have been like.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-vpYqF49Fdz4/UAWAcLC0vTI/AAAAAAAABXA/3SnV8zWpVQA/s1600-h/P1050076%252520Stitch%25255B5%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1050076 Stitch" alt="P1050076 Stitch" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Qb9QkGxdozk/UAWAczSNcEI/AAAAAAAABXI/Zzetqvix_t4/P1050076%252520Stitch_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="314" height="200"></a></p> <p align="center">The view down from the summit of Machu Picchu Mountain to the site shows how incredibly perched Machu Picchu is, surrounded by sharp peaks and encircled by the river.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-zrHlnaa406g/UAWAfHAtAjI/AAAAAAAABXQ/IxCty7gj9G0/s1600-h/P1050091%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1050091" alt="P1050091" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-ygBmtBEJqHM/UAWAf-1Wl9I/AAAAAAAABXY/VH5baDmssts/P1050091_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Jenn and Shalila relaxing and taking in the view.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-vETZYPwrOXo/UAWAh8-rhrI/AAAAAAAABXg/DocMtSAvq0E/s1600-h/P1050124%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1050124" alt="P1050124" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-CwPkkMQwUT0/UAWAjE17xQI/AAAAAAAABXo/2IQeOzQkCT8/P1050124_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Terraces and the main site in all their afternoon glory.</p> <p>We spent almost 10 hours at the site marvelling at the stonework, the position, and the incredible views. Without a doubt, this is one of most spectacular and awe-inspiring places that either of us have ever seen.</p>David Braydenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03168652029329823825noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8617115763088595907.post-20243660677122292412012-07-09T20:51:00.001-07:002015-06-28T19:10:20.807-07:00Short Pants and Loooonnnng Socks…<p>And other high altitude, cold weather, survival innovations.</p> <p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-CLPFB2TLQ4M/T_ul2yvTBZI/AAAAAAAAAhE/I_5MjN6FThw/s1600-h/P1040798%252520-%252520Blog%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" title="P1040798 - Blog" alt="P1040798 - Blog" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-TqKsPzpFYNY/T_ul3-0R7xI/AAAAAAAAAhM/A1PL8GhQ9qk/P1040798%252520-%252520Blog_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="181"></a></p> <p>The ride from Nasca to Cusco was so far the most challenging section of the trip for us. It took 10 riding days for us to cover 650km. In those 10 days we climbed over 12 500 vertical metres (40 010ft or 1.5 Mt. Everests).</p> <a name='more'></a> <p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-Wll0-KpBwbs/T_ul6Jfh6BI/AAAAAAAAAhU/iIqe53utP5g/s1600-h/P1040763%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" title="Jenn on the climb up from Nasca." alt="Jenn on the climb up from Nasca." src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-JOv7iUo7hho/T_ul7fBZrQI/AAAAAAAAAhc/w3GSZqOmj10/P1040763_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">The climb from the coast to the first 4000m+ pass was hot, dry and full of switchbacks. It took almost two full days of pedalling to cover 95km.</p> <p>Another consideration for this section was that the riding was a lot more remote. Much of it was over 4000m in the pampa (grassland) covered Peruvian altiplano with nothing but camelids for company.</p> <p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-_UlqeljbBDs/T_ul-1ongtI/AAAAAAAAAhk/YI3hr2Wlgko/s1600-h/P1040783%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" title="P1040783" alt="P1040783" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-soeC4Zo3J8s/T_ul_94KsGI/AAAAAAAAAhs/AIPWNEJFWFg/P1040783_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-e2uMrrhGhJ8/T_umCN1c77I/AAAAAAAAAh0/Zg6ySZo_N4w/s1600-h/P1040779%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" title="P1040779" alt="P1040779" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-SYLi8QNLzRc/T_umDDCkn9I/AAAAAAAAAh8/VA06WXSK04Q/P1040779_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="180" height="240"></a></p> <p align="center">A fine, warm looking member of the alpaca species.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-TMLyNOB6VMk/T_umILzq61I/AAAAAAAAAiE/GytOSKJnFAg/s1600-h/P1040766%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1040766" alt="P1040766" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-8tigcaaiYLg/T_umJDqOAII/AAAAAAAAAiM/Lr76V3mkm8Q/P1040766_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="179"></a></p> <p align="center">Vicunas are an undomesticated relative of the llama.</p> <p>The remote environment meant we had to be a lot more self-sufficient, carrying enough food for several days and putting to the test our new water collection and treatment methods.</p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-SgSXgxPAHpA/T_umMF4Q6fI/AAAAAAAAAiU/FbAzlAxqUIE/s1600-h/P1040877%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" title="Duct tape bucket." alt="Duct tape bucket." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-qmOq2_0mY2I/T_umMyOIpRI/AAAAAAAAAic/2MRhDXpVmOg/P1040877_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Jenn made this nifty, roughly 5L, water bucket in Lima with about $1 worth of duct tape and zap straps and a left over shoulder strap.</p> <p align="left">We use the bucket mostly for retrieving water from streams before using our recently purchased MSR water filter to purify and transfer it to a camel bag for transport. Other uses include clothes washing and holding heated water for sponge bathing when it’s really cold and an unheated water bottle just won’t cut it.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-lgD_NWJPaVo/T_umOu0mu0I/AAAAAAAAAik/coPKi0YkYPg/s1600-h/P1040793%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" title="P1040793" alt="P1040793" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-MYuCn_It-nw/T_umPUPve0I/AAAAAAAAAis/I4Ml1TRS5mU/P1040793_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Our highest camp of the trip at 4300m made for some great sunset views…</p> <p align="left">But man is it cold that high up. Thankfully we were aware of the negative temps awaiting us and did some preparation beforehand. The most beneficial item added to the kit list had to be the Thermos’ we purchased in Lima. The tricky (but not without a solution) part was finding a convenient way to carry them:</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-eeHJyiGGFHc/T_umSha9pMI/AAAAAAAAAi0/dHnfOGGoHbs/s1600-h/P1040822-Blog%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" title="P1040822-Blog" alt="P1040822-Blog" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-q0kgXSJa0n8/T_umTbr3uiI/AAAAAAAAAi8/J1azNalKbgE/P1040822-Blog_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="179"></a> <br>Zap straps, a ski strap, cardboard, duct tape and some manipulation of an existing water bottle carrier together create a perfect spot on Dave’s large frame for 1L of hot beverage heaven.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-VoXiNwu-aac/T_umVr3549I/AAAAAAAAAjE/hcyHKzbQz8Q/s1600-h/P1040788-Blog%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1040788-Blog" alt="P1040788-Blog" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-u2m4qiHRCnk/T_umWWcmNRI/AAAAAAAAAjM/fr1NOjNojf4/P1040788-Blog_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Jenn, her frame being too small for this method, resorted to reinforcing (with you guessed it: duct tape and zap straps) the included Thermos carrying pouch and attaching it to the back of her pannier.</p> <p align="left">Dividing the high altitude sections were cruel and steep but beautiful descents into (and subsequent ascents out of) stunning river valleys.</p> <p align="left"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/--h_eqj3O_3U/T_umZUloaiI/AAAAAAAAAjU/WVtSy7o1yrY/s1600-h/P1040812%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline; float: left" title="P1040812" alt="P1040812" align="left" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-VOijT1yI2MQ/T_umcey5GLI/AAAAAAAAAjc/pK2lnmRfeLs/P1040812_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="left"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Ohhv-uvvgUw/T_umfOD6oXI/AAAAAAAAAjk/plcFy-GBy64/s1600-h/P1040810%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline; float: right" title="P1040810" alt="P1040810" align="right" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-orxD59fh6GY/T_umgLP_WjI/AAAAAAAAAjs/PhQQ5OYguhc/P1040810_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="left"> </p> <p align="left"> </p> <p align="left"> </p> <p align="left"> </p> <p align="left"><br> </p> <p align="left"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-TXh9JQQgBHo/T_umiMn1rfI/AAAAAAAAAj0/nAM0sCv3gFk/s1600-h/P1040823%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" title="P1040823" alt="P1040823" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-K5USIsa0neI/T_umi5IWbPI/AAAAAAAAAj8/ySAeS113bsk/P1040823_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Jenn climbing 30km from Abancay and you can still see the city below.</p> <p align="left">This area also presented a whole different ball game when it came to finding a hidden campsite. There weren’t many, so…</p> <p align="left"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-VsqVVfUgM_E/T_umlTv6DvI/AAAAAAAAAkE/7lfjsVk6gnk/s1600-h/P1040775%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" title="P1040775" alt="P1040775" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-uw1fqgw0MCw/T_ummu9zr8I/AAAAAAAAAkM/1O6L-Rk1GS8/P1040775_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">You take what you get. Even if it means a little prickly bike mountaineering.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-NduPEJfnV-Y/T_umqDWRSKI/AAAAAAAAAkU/216hrugbDgA/s1600-h/P1040814%25255B7%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1040814" alt="P1040814" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-3bwnGi2S2Ms/T_umrIRyF3I/AAAAAAAAAkc/nJzczCxFGGU/P1040814_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">And sometimes you make it your own by creating rock walls and other features to decrease conspicuousness and increase comfort.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-6Jmo4OSIVLk/T_umtxutROI/AAAAAAAAAkk/gWSiKcRSPr0/s1600-h/P1040837%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1040837" alt="P1040837" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-6Tskb7eWkq8/T_umurqB9KI/AAAAAAAAAks/VCYTLIJPPW0/P1040837_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">That’s right, we’re a couple of real cycling ninjas. We could be hiding anywhere.</p> <p align="left">Although this area was difficult and remote, we definitely weren’t the only ones on it. Highway 26 is a major thoroughfare from the coast to Cusco.</p> <p align="left"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-542-FBabTxg/T_umxeAKWhI/AAAAAAAAAk0/iCvq7Hm0X4o/s1600-h/P1040776%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline; float: left" title="P1040776" alt="P1040776" align="left" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-wqYP3kAn34o/T_umyRFEyFI/AAAAAAAAAk8/KsD-27eIm9Q/P1040776_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-eHOhXOkHimw/T_um1AazmzI/AAAAAAAAAlE/50i2rQO9gdU/s1600-h/P1040831%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline; float: right" title="P1040831" alt="P1040831" align="right" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-E0XG4PL0EAo/T_um174S4sI/AAAAAAAAAlM/ECbKHxDQBZM/P1040831_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p><br> </p> <p>These friendly folks stopped to give Javier, from Argentina. The<br> us some fruit, a hot commodity in first cyclist we’ve seen in<br> these parts. awhile.</p> <p>It was a huge moment for us to finally arrive in Cusco: long awaited and hard fought. It is hard to believe that after 10 months of pedaling we have arrived at a destination always thought of as being so far in the future. Going along with the nature of the trip, there is never a dull moment, and now we are preparing for our 4:30am departure tomorrow for a 5 day trek to Machu Picchu.</p>Jennifer Braydenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08516145994906317592noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8617115763088595907.post-30269980126708434552012-07-03T12:12:00.001-07:002015-06-28T19:10:20.833-07:00Lines in the Sand<p>Since our last post we’ve travelled about 500km South along the coast from Lima to Nazca. The riding wasn’t particularly difficult or inspiring, but this section was packed with interesting activities and archaeological sites.</p> <p>This area of the coast attracts the majority of weekend vacationers from Lima. In 2007 an 8.6 magnitude earthquake (the government called it 8.0 so they wouldn’t have to pay as many reparations) completely destroyed the city of Pisco and damaged many nearby. Together these things make a very Peruvian combination of rich resorts amidst extreme poverty.</p> <p>Our first stop was the seaside resort of Paracas. From here we took a two hour boat tour to see the areas sights.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-HyARNHmUO3s/T_NDpkLJwkI/AAAAAAAABP4/f_EnOUWzTKM/s1600-h/P10405724.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1040572" alt="P1040572" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-rR0qnU1MfLA/T_NDqXU6HAI/AAAAAAAABQA/fiSQHgRoVPQ/P1040572_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="180" height="240"></a></p> <p align="center">The Paracas culture created this giant “chandelier” (more likely a cactus), which can only be seen from the ocean, around 2000 years ago. The lines are created by removing the darker surface rocks to reveal the lighter coloured sand underneath. </p> <a name='more'></a> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-6gVT-4lKDOc/T_NDrz84IeI/AAAAAAAABQI/FoDZSHvomR8/s1600-h/P10406174.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1040617" alt="P1040617" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-QLIQBnjY1HM/T_NDsg6-3rI/AAAAAAAABQQ/NkQTDLYXBgg/P1040617_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">The Islas Ballestas lie off the coast of Paracas right in the cold Humboldt Current. This time of year anchovies follow the current North and the islands become home to all kinds of birds which come here to feed. The birds guano (poo) is one of the world’s best fertilizers. Here it is harvested every 10-30 years when it gets to be more than 50cm thick!</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-fDEgHGbpMdc/T_NDusdCxQI/AAAAAAAABQY/yPtxjX4KjNw/s1600-h/P10406324.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1040632" alt="P1040632" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-JHQ-PCkBlNM/T_NDvcflhsI/AAAAAAAABQg/l9nK9kJyU1c/P1040632_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">The area was packed with wildlife. We saw pelicans, Inca terns, Peruvian boobies, sealions, and …</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-04t41z6hZLs/T_NDw-j-sGI/AAAAAAAABQo/1shp5FeOpGI/s1600-h/P10405964.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1040596" alt="P1040596" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-VcnlFlLNeC0/T_NDx6QMfDI/AAAAAAAABQw/HUU5CEhmp-A/P1040596_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">… Humboldt penguins!!!</p> <p>From Paracas we headed to the former Peruvian resort town turned gringo town of Huacachina. Some of our friends said it best when they called it a giant sandbox for grownups.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-cet5d5HEMmA/T_NDzi_gm0I/AAAAAAAABQ4/mNCA3EChln8/s1600-h/P10406394.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1040639" alt="P1040639" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-deNEz06j5_U/T_ND0tQsX1I/AAAAAAAABRA/bIit9uq1mf4/P1040639_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Jenn and the oasis of Huacachina. Despite the lack of photo evidence, we are still getting around by bicycle ;)</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-hbfn79iCKSQ/T_ND15zMywI/AAAAAAAABRI/O3K6QliPbYs/s1600-h/P10406494.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1040649" alt="P1040649" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-T1xGCXbhaJY/T_ND2eWGmII/AAAAAAAABRQ/jirB-uHHCX4/P1040649_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="171"></a></p> <p align="center">The best, and most fun, way to see the dunes of Huacachina is by dune buggy.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-toUlU2WDyow/T_ND3XWmXSI/AAAAAAAABRY/2-vOhD2w82o/s1600-h/P10406584.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1040658" alt="P1040658" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-GB1bolmgspE/T_ND4H8MgkI/AAAAAAAABRg/yH_js1vkzY4/P1040658_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a> <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-itQx7slK_KE/T_ND4ydXfvI/AAAAAAAABRo/coUq2hQBPK4/s1600-h/P10406624.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1040662" alt="P1040662" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-04Sr2OsE614/T_ND5g7JvOI/AAAAAAAABRw/HudKkuZ6NNk/P1040662_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Making our own lines sandboarding down the dunes.</p> <p align="center"></p> <p align="center"></p> <p align="center"></p> <p align="center"></p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-yshpIfbd7tQ/T_ND6iYQU0I/AAAAAAAABR4/nxq1ot71ZMo/s1600-h/P10406694.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1040669" alt="P1040669" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-ArIyXgriI7A/T_ND7X63apI/AAAAAAAABSA/dM55MzZvOfQ/P1040669_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="180" height="240"></a></p> <p align="center">Also making face shaped divots.</p> <p>Our next stop was a bit of a milestone for us. Since the start of our trip we’ve been dreaming about visiting the famous Nazca Lines. There are thousands of geometric designs and over 300 pictographs in the desert here that were created between 600BC and 400AD. </p> <p><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-80lmT_xHgVA/T_ND9CVbuhI/AAAAAAAABSI/M7prNqFZHEw/s1600-h/P10406974.jpg"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" title="P1040697" alt="P1040697" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-1XrhVVoxdwM/T_ND9-9JcNI/AAAAAAAABSQ/8coR1p4mwMU/P1040697_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">After 10 months we made it!</p> <p>Like the chandelier of Paracas, the lines are created by removing the darker surface rocks, and are preserved by the lack of rain and wind. The pictures are several hundred metres wide and the designs can be up to tens of kilometers long. This means that the designs are so big that they can only be seen properly from the air! To get the full experience we took a short and bumpy tourist flight to see the area. Hungry for more information we then attended a lecture on the lines at the local planetarium.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-o_h7JQUDtwc/T_ND_gTj9OI/AAAAAAAABSY/NKFHJj5twbo/s1600-h/P10407227.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px; display: inline" title="P1040722" alt="P1040722" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-iMsnOb1ou2M/T_NEAleukgI/AAAAAAAABSg/WRH8BIvhiM0/P1040722_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Definitely the most famous picture, the monkey (top right). The spiral tail is somewhat of a national symbol of Peru. In this dry area, the monkey symbolized water.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-_5Bd9NFQX38/T_NECPVl3QI/AAAAAAAABSo/iUnO6UXBXW8/s1600-h/P10407237.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px; display: inline" title="P1040723" alt="P1040723" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-pPUC7ZsmhVI/T_NEDBiyRVI/AAAAAAAABSw/YfJvWsMgw0I/P1040723_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">Another of our favourites, the hummingbird.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-HYW0qsoQXRI/T_NEE0iDrnI/AAAAAAAABS4/K2HaUI-uiHk/s1600-h/P104072711.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1040727" alt="P1040727" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-zSDG6VrWPHw/T_NEFt4ViFI/AAAAAAAABTA/lLcYoq0GDUQ/P1040727_thumb3.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">The spider.</p> <p>Even today their purpose remains a mystery. Theories abound, including that the figures formed a giant airport for extraterrestrials! The two most widely accepted theories are that they were used for religious ceremonies related to water or that they formed a gigantic astronomical map, pointing out solstices and locations of constellations during different important celestial events. These theories aren’t mutually exclusive, and it’s likely that they are both partly true. The astronomical theory would make the Nazca culture one of the most advanced of its time.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-go7WZ_5y3R0/T_NEH1ADjEI/AAAAAAAABTI/63nTvi39JyM/s1600-h/P10407554.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="P1040755" alt="P1040755" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-dnr8BC6FYA4/T_NEIkSUhGI/AAAAAAAABTQ/cl3YlyG33Mw/P1040755_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180"></a></p> <p align="center">We also visited some Nazca aqueducts (there’s flowing water at the bottom). The Nazca were smart enough to dig deep down to the water table to find underground streams. Note the spiral design, similar to the monkey’s tail.</p> <p>From Nazca we ride up into the mountains towards Cuzco and our next milestone destination of Machu Pichu. The ride starts with a 4000m climb from Nazca, wish us luck!</p>David Braydenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03168652029329823825noreply@blogger.com3